kony wrote:

> On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:47:29 -0500, Analabha Roy
> <daneelNOSPAM@physics.utexas.edu> wrote:
>
>
>>> The difference it makes is that you didn't get a "real" 400W
>>> PSU, you got a 250W PSU with a (arguably fradulent) 400W
>>> label slapped on it.
>>
>>
>>Whoa! Newegg would sell stuff like that???
>>
>
> Newegg sells whatever people buy, it's a business.
>
>
>>That's a bit hard to believe from a cool vendor like Newegg.
>>
>> If your serious, then how do I test the actual power rating (newegg
>> RMA's,
>>of course)?
>
> Set up capacitive / resistive loads on each rail,


How? do I get a breadboard, put some resistors and capacitors in them, and
use that? How will I be able to connect that with the power port of the
PSU? Do i have to unscrew and remove the chassis or something?




> hook up a
> scope and a few multimeters, vary the load rapidly like
> modern CPUs/GPUs/etc do, and run some tests for a few
> months, recording voltages, recovery time, ripple, etc.
> Then test shutdown thresholds like overcurrent, overvoltage,
> overheat, fan lifespan and response... There is no way you
> can do a simple "it's good long-term" type of qualification
> for it in a day or two.

But isn't it possible to just verify the maximum power threshhold of the PSU
without too much testing?




>
> Put simply, you won't get the same PSU for $20 as for $60
> unless you happened to find some rare OEM closeout surplus
> something-or-other, which is not a normal stock retail
> purchase. It's certainly not necessary to have cable
> sheaths, LEDs, glowing neon or any of the eyecandy to cut
> costs a few dollars but PSU are commodity items and one
> can't just spend 1/2 as much and expect there weren't
> significant corners cut on a generic.