On Mon, 30 Jun 2008 18:07:57 -0500, "Ken Maltby"
<kmaltby@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>
>"larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
>news:fd0972a5-f0f0-4a9b-b02f-83005cfe8e73@v26g2000prm.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>> Grinder wrote:
>>> I have a front panel for a PC that has broken. It's normally secured to
>>> the metal chassis by driving screws from within the chassis into 3/4"
>>> plastic posts that attach to the very front face of the front panel.
>>> Two of those posts have been sheared off at their base.
>>>
>>> I've superglued them, but I know that won't hold against any shearing
>>> force, which they're bound to receive. Is there some product I can glob
>>> onto the base of the posts to secure them?
>>>
>>> That epoxiputty stuff sort of looks useful, but the only application I'm
>>> reserving for that is to make a suppository for Billy Mays.
>>
>> The latest Consumer Reports has a brief article about Mighty Putty
>> (the Billy Mays stuff), Devcon Plastic Steel, Loctite Sumo Glue, and
>> Elmer's Ultimate. All worked well, but the last three worked better
>> than Mighty Putty and were cheaper.
>
>---------------------------------------
> Those "last three" are simple Epoxy glues, the Epoxy Putties (and
>there are plenty of them besides this Mighty Putty) are not just glue.

While this might be true, the difference isn't very
significant. If the area to which the epoxy is applied is
thoroughly cleaned first (rubbing alcohol will do fine) any
generic epoxy should suffice, and has done fine for many
repairs I've done.

One thing to consider is you don't actually want an epoxy
that becomes *very* hard, because it's bonding two parts
that flex. The greater the difference between the epoxy and
the parts, the more likely a stress would separate the bond
between them.

>There are a number of different formulations used in auto repair, for
>instance. There are a number of formulations used in the plumbing
>field. It is a common and useful aid to Marine repairs. Some use
>metal fillers, some plastic. "QuikSteel" is a well known example.
>http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Serv...xy%20Putty.htm
>http://www.andax.com/epoxy-putty.aspx
>http://epoxygator.com/
>http://www.tsground.com/
>http://www.dawginc.com/secondary-spi...pair-putty.php
>http://www.verick.com/data_maintenance02.htm including Titanium Putty.
>http://www.parkeryamaha.com/browsepr...utty-2oz..html
>
>As for Billy's Putty:
>http://www.diylife.com/2008/01/08/bi...under-the-sun/
>
> The stuff I've used has always worked.
>--------------------------------------
>


For me it comes down to cost and convenience. Any decent
larger hardware store should have something that works and
doesn't cost much. With extreme repairs what I find works
better than a certain type of epoxy is to put fiberglass
matting over the first layer saturated in epoxy. This is
seldom needed for a simple case bezel stud repair, if the
force were enough to make a difference then it would tend to
break off the other studs before the newly repaired one. On
that thought, I suppose if someone were being really
thorough they might went to reinforce all the studs while
the bezel was off, at least others molded in such a way to
have a similar vulnerability.