I am tryiing to wire up three fans.
I have a PS cable-adapter that has one male and 3 three female PS
plugs.
I would like to put in a switch.
I have another male-female PS cable bridge and a 3 pole on-off switch.
I dont think I should simply break the red with the switch
Will three 12v .18a, 12v 15a &12v 3a fans burn out the switch even if
it is stamped with [3amp 250vac] & [20amp 125 vac]?
In a PS cable-loom, is the Red cable 12volts and the Yellow cable 5
volts?.. If so I could split the fans accros the PS positives but I
still dont like the idea of the swict being wired directly into the
power loom.
Can I fit a relay? or am i worring about nothing - it would seems a
relay-switch would be safer?
Or, with the right wiring is the swith I bought already a built-in
relay switch? - it has three poles
SOME BACKGROUND
I use my machine in two modes, flat-out and idle, so Iv decided to load
it up with fans and a on-off switch running off the standard power
leads.
Ive spent some time with easy-tune5, speedfan, the 4 fan connectors on
my Gigabyte GAK8N-SLi & 4 odd-bod collection of cpu & ps fans.
Ive been trying to rig them all to go quiet but cant afford a proper
fans & solution - so just on and off would be nice.
On 6 Nov 2006 03:59:08 -0800, "rbt"
<robertbruceshaw@hotmail.com> wrote:
>I am tryiing to wire up three fans.
>I have a PS cable-adapter that has one male and 3 three female PS
>plugs.
>I would like to put in a switch.
>I have another male-female PS cable bridge and a 3 pole on-off switch.
>I dont think I should simply break the red with the switch
"Usually" fans run from 12V, the (usually) yellow wire on a
PSU lead. The switch would break that, or the ground, not
the red wire to turn the fan(s) off.
>
>Will three 12v .18a, 12v 15a &12v 3a fans burn out the switch even if
>it is stamped with [3amp 250vac] & [20amp 125 vac]?
I presume by "15a" and "3a" you actually mean "0.15A" and
"0.3A", since there is no practical fan that would be put in
a PC that uses 3A or more current.
We could do the math to determine the total current of these
three fans but we dont' really need to, it's certainly still
far below what a 3A/20A switch can handle.
>
>In a PS cable-loom, is the Red cable 12volts and the Yellow cable 5
>volts?..
Yellow is 12V, red is 5V.
>If so I could split the fans accros the PS positives but I
>still dont like the idea of the swict being wired directly into the
>power loom.
Well then how did you want to do it? It's not a problem
handling the tiny bit of current three fans use. Relatively
there are devices that use far less, but in the context of
computer equipment, 3 fans is nothing, you would be hard
pressed to find a switch large enough that it can be
reasonably switched and have it unable to handle (additively
as listed above for the three fans) 630mA.
>
>Can I fit a relay? or am i worring about nothing - it would seems a
>relay-switch would be safer?
No need for a relay, it'd just be an unnecessary expense,
unnecessary slight increase in complexity and a mechanical
part that slightly increases chances of failure as well as
taking up more space.
>Or, with the right wiring is the swith I bought already a built-in
>relay switch? - it has three poles
I highly doubt it has a relay built in. More likely it's a
SPDT switch, meaning it has one contact (call it contact #2)
that's open to contact #1 when in one position, and closed
to #3 in that position. Flip the switch and then #2 is
closed to #1 and open to #3. That'll work fine, you'd just
ignore position #1 or #3, and wire the power and fan leads
to the other two remaining positions.
>SOME BACKGROUND
>
>I use my machine in two modes, flat-out and idle, so Iv decided to load
>it up with fans and a on-off switch running off the standard power
>leads.
>
>Ive spent some time with easy-tune5, speedfan, the 4 fan connectors on
>my Gigabyte GAK8N-SLi & 4 odd-bod collection of cpu & ps fans.
>
>Ive been trying to rig them all to go quiet but cant afford a proper
>fans & solution - so just on and off would be nice.
What you propose to do will work. There are several ways to
do it so if you're ok with having to switch them on and off,
that's fine. If you only have these 3 fans in addition to
the one in your PSU, personally I'd consider leaving the
slowest of the 3 (probably the 0.13A fan) running even when
the system is idle, and having that one mounted in the back
wall of the case as an exhaust. While the CPU (and perhaps
video card, if you're a gamer) will significantly decrease
power consumption when idle, it's still better to have more
than just the PSU as an exhaust, especially since it would
mean the PSU was then drawing all the heated air up into
itself which can contribute to shorter lifespan.
yur right - it was a 0.15a. The 0. was miles off to the left of the 15
on the ttl amps, the maths is ok yep - when i was reading it as 15 amps
I was worried, electricity really worries me, even 12volts.
OMG, red and yellow corrected...
and Ive just noticed the switch has two "on" stamped into it, not a
"on" or "off". This must tie up with the two amps mentioned
Hey man, your good, I did buy a 3A/20A SPDT & I found another fan. That
makes 7 all up, the bluddy thing should be catching a cold.
There is two in the 430w Thermatek PSU & one on the CPU to the mobo, am
leaving those 3 alone, the ps had no fan sensor wire, the CPU fan is
quiet when is cool and is very responsive to easytune5. No
top-blow-hole in the case, thinking of cutting one in, does get very
warm on the top panel of the case. The rear exhaust from the PSU seems
weak and doesnt get out a very warm airflow.
Will put TWO fans to rear exhaust, one fan to switch position 1 of my
new SDDT switch and the other, plus the remaining fans, put to switch
position 2, which is the 20amp channel if Im getting it right.... that
will satisfy my paranoria & give me a constant "on" state of fan/s.
I am going to take a uneducated guess and pick the middle post of the
switch as the ground
Last week I had this rig in a AT Tower Case, then a fancy side-window
top-holed full-height ATX and now this ATX midi. There wasnt been a
marked temp diff in any unless care taken with cable/wire/ribbon
routing and even that only saved 8degrees - prolly back to what it
should be.
How's this for food for thought - an CPU/GPU water-cooler would cost
more than half as a airconditioner, and then we'd both be
cool...OMG..lol..
many tx again
kony wrote:
> On 6 Nov 2006 03:59:08 -0800, "rbt"
> <robertbruceshaw@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I am tryiing to wire up three fans.
> >I have a PS cable-adapter that has one male and 3 three female PS
> >plugs.
> >I would like to put in a switch.
> >I have another male-female PS cable bridge and a 3 pole on-off switch.
> >I dont think I should simply break the red with the switch
>
>
> "Usually" fans run from 12V, the (usually) yellow wire on a
> PSU lead. The switch would break that, or the ground, not
> the red wire to turn the fan(s) off.
>
>
> >
> >Will three 12v .18a, 12v 15a &12v 3a fans burn out the switch even if
> >it is stamped with [3amp 250vac] & [20amp 125 vac]?
>
> I presume by "15a" and "3a" you actually mean "0.15A" and
> "0.3A", since there is no practical fan that would be put in
> a PC that uses 3A or more current.
>
> We could do the math to determine the total current of these
> three fans but we dont' really need to, it's certainly still
> far below what a 3A/20A switch can handle.
>
>
>
> >
> >In a PS cable-loom, is the Red cable 12volts and the Yellow cable 5
> >volts?..
>
> Yellow is 12V, red is 5V.
>
>
> >If so I could split the fans accros the PS positives but I
> >still dont like the idea of the swict being wired directly into the
> >power loom.
>
> Well then how did you want to do it? It's not a problem
> handling the tiny bit of current three fans use. Relatively
> there are devices that use far less, but in the context of
> computer equipment, 3 fans is nothing, you would be hard
> pressed to find a switch large enough that it can be
> reasonably switched and have it unable to handle (additively
> as listed above for the three fans) 630mA.
>
>
> >
> >Can I fit a relay? or am i worring about nothing - it would seems a
> >relay-switch would be safer?
>
> No need for a relay, it'd just be an unnecessary expense,
> unnecessary slight increase in complexity and a mechanical
> part that slightly increases chances of failure as well as
> taking up more space.
>
>
> >Or, with the right wiring is the swith I bought already a built-in
> >relay switch? - it has three poles
>
> I highly doubt it has a relay built in. More likely it's a
> SPDT switch, meaning it has one contact (call it contact #2)
> that's open to contact #1 when in one position, and closed
> to #3 in that position. Flip the switch and then #2 is
> closed to #1 and open to #3. That'll work fine, you'd just
> ignore position #1 or #3, and wire the power and fan leads
> to the other two remaining positions.
>
>
> >SOME BACKGROUND
> >
> >I use my machine in two modes, flat-out and idle, so Iv decided to load
> >it up with fans and a on-off switch running off the standard power
> >leads.
> >
> >Ive spent some time with easy-tune5, speedfan, the 4 fan connectors on
> >my Gigabyte GAK8N-SLi & 4 odd-bod collection of cpu & ps fans.
> >
> >Ive been trying to rig them all to go quiet but cant afford a proper
> >fans & solution - so just on and off would be nice.
>
> What you propose to do will work. There are several ways to
> do it so if you're ok with having to switch them on and off,
> that's fine. If you only have these 3 fans in addition to
> the one in your PSU, personally I'd consider leaving the
> slowest of the 3 (probably the 0.13A fan) running even when
> the system is idle, and having that one mounted in the back
> wall of the case as an exhaust. While the CPU (and perhaps
> video card, if you're a gamer) will significantly decrease
> power consumption when idle, it's still better to have more
> than just the PSU as an exhaust, especially since it would
> mean the PSU was then drawing all the heated air up into
> itself which can contribute to shorter lifespan.
The switch would break that, or the ground, not
the red wire to turn the fan(s) off.
is the opposite tru in all states...
The switch would make that, or the power, not
the black(ground) wire to turn the fan(s) on
no wonder im frightened of it... that how ive been seeing it
rbt wrote:
> HUGE Thanks for your reply,
>
> yur right - it was a 0.15a. The 0. was miles off to the left of the 15
>
> on the ttl amps, the maths is ok yep - when i was reading it as 15 amps
> I was worried, electricity really worries me, even 12volts.
>
> OMG, red and yellow corrected...
>
> and Ive just noticed the switch has two "on" stamped into it, not a
> "on" or "off". This must tie up with the two amps mentioned
>
> Hey man, your good, I did buy a 3A/20A SPDT & I found another fan. That
> makes 7 all up, the bluddy thing should be catching a cold.
>
> There is two in the 430w Thermatek PSU & one on the CPU to the mobo, am
> leaving those 3 alone, the ps had no fan sensor wire, the CPU fan is
> quiet when is cool and is very responsive to easytune5. No
> top-blow-hole in the case, thinking of cutting one in, does get very
> warm on the top panel of the case. The rear exhaust from the PSU seems
> weak and doesnt get out a very warm airflow.
>
> Will put TWO fans to rear exhaust, one fan to switch position 1 of my
> new SDDT switch and the other, plus the remaining fans, put to switch
> position 2, which is the 20amp channel if Im getting it right.... that
> will satisfy my paranoria & give me a constant "on" state of fan/s.
>
> I am going to take a uneducated guess and pick the middle post of the
> switch as the ground
>
> Last week I had this rig in a AT Tower Case, then a fancy side-window
> top-holed full-height ATX and now this ATX midi. There wasnt been a
> marked temp diff in any unless care taken with cable/wire/ribbon
> routing and even that only saved 8degrees - prolly back to what it
> should be.
>
> How's this for food for thought - an CPU/GPU water-cooler would cost
> more than half as a airconditioner, and then we'd both be
> cool...OMG..lol..
>
> many tx again
>
> kony wrote:
> > On 6 Nov 2006 03:59:08 -0800, "rbt"
> > <robertbruceshaw@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > >I am tryiing to wire up three fans.
> > >I have a PS cable-adapter that has one male and 3 three female PS
> > >plugs.
> > >I would like to put in a switch.
> > >I have another male-female PS cable bridge and a 3 pole on-off switch.
> > >I dont think I should simply break the red with the switch
> >
> >
> > "Usually" fans run from 12V, the (usually) yellow wire on a
> > PSU lead. The switch would break that, or the ground, not
> > the red wire to turn the fan(s) off.
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Will three 12v .18a, 12v 15a &12v 3a fans burn out the switch even if
> > >it is stamped with [3amp 250vac] & [20amp 125 vac]?
> >
> > I presume by "15a" and "3a" you actually mean "0.15A" and
> > "0.3A", since there is no practical fan that would be put in
> > a PC that uses 3A or more current.
> >
> > We could do the math to determine the total current of these
> > three fans but we dont' really need to, it's certainly still
> > far below what a 3A/20A switch can handle.
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >In a PS cable-loom, is the Red cable 12volts and the Yellow cable 5
> > >volts?..
> >
> > Yellow is 12V, red is 5V.
> >
> >
> > >If so I could split the fans accros the PS positives but I
> > >still dont like the idea of the swict being wired directly into the
> > >power loom.
> >
> > Well then how did you want to do it? It's not a problem
> > handling the tiny bit of current three fans use. Relatively
> > there are devices that use far less, but in the context of
> > computer equipment, 3 fans is nothing, you would be hard
> > pressed to find a switch large enough that it can be
> > reasonably switched and have it unable to handle (additively
> > as listed above for the three fans) 630mA.
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Can I fit a relay? or am i worring about nothing - it would seems a
> > >relay-switch would be safer?
> >
> > No need for a relay, it'd just be an unnecessary expense,
> > unnecessary slight increase in complexity and a mechanical
> > part that slightly increases chances of failure as well as
> > taking up more space.
> >
> >
> > >Or, with the right wiring is the swith I bought already a built-in
> > >relay switch? - it has three poles
> >
> > I highly doubt it has a relay built in. More likely it's a
> > SPDT switch, meaning it has one contact (call it contact #2)
> > that's open to contact #1 when in one position, and closed
> > to #3 in that position. Flip the switch and then #2 is
> > closed to #1 and open to #3. That'll work fine, you'd just
> > ignore position #1 or #3, and wire the power and fan leads
> > to the other two remaining positions.
> >
> >
> > >SOME BACKGROUND
> > >
> > >I use my machine in two modes, flat-out and idle, so Iv decided to load
> > >it up with fans and a on-off switch running off the standard power
> > >leads.
> > >
> > >Ive spent some time with easy-tune5, speedfan, the 4 fan connectors on
> > >my Gigabyte GAK8N-SLi & 4 odd-bod collection of cpu & ps fans.
> > >
> > >Ive been trying to rig them all to go quiet but cant afford a proper
> > >fans & solution - so just on and off would be nice.
> >
> > What you propose to do will work. There are several ways to
> > do it so if you're ok with having to switch them on and off,
> > that's fine. If you only have these 3 fans in addition to
> > the one in your PSU, personally I'd consider leaving the
> > slowest of the 3 (probably the 0.13A fan) running even when
> > the system is idle, and having that one mounted in the back
> > wall of the case as an exhaust. While the CPU (and perhaps
> > video card, if you're a gamer) will significantly decrease
> > power consumption when idle, it's still better to have more
> > than just the PSU as an exhaust, especially since it would
> > mean the PSU was then drawing all the heated air up into
> > itself which can contribute to shorter lifespan.
rbt wrote:
> I am tryiing to wire up three fans.
> I have a PS cable-adapter that has one male and 3 three female PS
> plugs.
> I would like to put in a switch.
> I have another male-female PS cable bridge and a 3 pole on-off switch.
> I dont think I should simply break the red with the switch
>
> Will three 12v .18a, 12v 15a &12v 3a fans burn out the switch even if
> it is stamped with [3amp 250vac] & [20amp 125 vac]?
>
> In a PS cable-loom, is the Red cable 12volts and the Yellow cable 5
> volts?.. If so I could split the fans accros the PS positives but I
> still dont like the idea of the swict being wired directly into the
> power loom.
>
> Can I fit a relay? or am i worring about nothing - it would seems a
> relay-switch would be safer?
> Or, with the right wiring is the swith I bought already a built-in
> relay switch? - it has three poles
>
>
>
> SOME BACKGROUND
>
> I use my machine in two modes, flat-out and idle, so Iv decided to load
> it up with fans and a on-off switch running off the standard power
> leads.
>
> Ive spent some time with easy-tune5, speedfan, the 4 fan connectors on
> my Gigabyte GAK8N-SLi & 4 odd-bod collection of cpu & ps fans.
>
> Ive been trying to rig them all to go quiet but cant afford a proper
> fans & solution - so just on and off would be nice.
>
> tis
>
In terms of control, you should aim for a simple setup. You should have
the "base" set of fans that are always running. You don't need any
switch in that path. You can use a switch to activate your "extra"
fans.
(Not that I approve of this plan, as the best way to do it is just
set the fans up to handle the situation no matter what, as if a friend
operates your machine, they might forget to flip the switch when needed.
One poster here, had a switch for his water cooling system,
his girl friend used his computer, and forgot to switch on the
water system. Fried CPU according to him.)
First of all, be careful with the wire color, because the color standard
for disk drive connectors is different than the one for three wire
fans. So you cannot just wire "yellow to yellow", as that would be
incorrect. You can find connector pinout information, to verify what
you are about to do, so don't trust my figures below, but check
them yourself to be sure.
One way to figure out the wiring on the fan, is open your motherboard
manual. The manual will label the three fan pins, which are "RPM", "+12V",
and "Ground". The center pin (red wire) on a three pin fan header
is +12V. The black wire is ground (so at least that color is consistent).
The remaining yellow wire is the RPM signal. Fans come either with three
wires or with two wires, and a two wire fan is missing the yellow RPM signal.
A two wire fan has a red and a black wire, and red is +12V and black is
GND.
You don't need the RPM signal, and in this case, I don't see any benefit
from hooking it up.
The messy part of the job, is the connectors that are on everything.
If the fans in question, had disk drive power connectors on the end,
there would be less work to do. If the fans had the small three pin
connectors on the end, you might consider picking up some Molex
4 pin disk drive to 3 pin fan adapter cables, as a quick and easy
way of getting the wiring right.
With the fan I have sitting in front of me, this is the wiring
color scheme for the three pin small connector (the connector that
would normally go to the motherboard fan header). This is the view
looking into the end of the fan cable's three pin connector. Notice
that the pin holes are close to the place where the orienting tab
fits, when the fan connector is plugged into the motherboard.
Fan cable 3 pin connector Molex Drive Connector
+------------------------+ +12V GND GND +5V
| | Yellow Black Black Red
| Yellow Red Black | X X X X
| RPM +12V GND |
| x x x |
| ____________________ |
|_| |_|
To run the fans, all you need is to break the yellow wire on
the Molex disk drive extender cable, with your switch. Once you
modify the Molex extender cable, it should only be used for
your fan system, as switching the power off to a disk drive
would not be a smart thing to do. You cut the Yellow wire
on the Molex drive extender assembly (near the source end),
so that the switch can open or close the Yellow +12V path.
/
/
Yellow <---------* *-------->
Black <---------------------->
Black <---------------------->
Red <---------------------->
If you don't plan on getting Molex drive to three pin adapters
or the like, then the wiring straight from a Molex drive cable
to the fans would look like this. The Fan_Yellow is optional
and a computer case fan likely doesn't have an RPM. You don't have
to wire the RPM signal to anything. Make sure you insulate the end
of the Fan_Yellow wire, so it doesn't contact anything. The "X"
here means "No Connection" and "tape off the end".
/
/ X----------- Fan_Yellow (RPM)
Yellow <---------* *--------> >----------- Fan_Red (+12V)
Black <----------------------> >----------- Fan_Black (GND)
Black <---------------------->
Red <---------------------->
With more than one fan to be controlled by the switch, all the
fans run in parallel. In other words, all the Fan black wires are
joined together. All the Fan red wires are joined together. Then
connect the clump of Fan_Red wires as in the above diagram. Connect
the clump of Fan_Black wires as above.
If you have a three position rocker switch, the positions would
be ON-OFF-ON. There are a million different kinds of switches,
and it is pretty hard to guess at what you've got. If the
switch has a center row/pins and two end rows/pins, then
the switch would look like this, logically speaking. You use
a center pin, and one end pin, to get the switching action.
Rocker switch, three position Wiper closes, center to one end.
/
|\_____/| /
|_______| ON * * * ON
* * *
To use the rocker, you can use a center pin (common) and one
end pin, like this. This is what it would look like, if I
was interrupting the flow of current in the Yellow Molex wire.
/
/
ON * * * ON
| |
| |
Yellow >-----+ +----> Yellow
If you are still unsure about what you are doing, remember
that the computer works best with good cooling, and you
can always select just enough fans to keep the computer
cool at all times, and leave it that way. I don't modify
my fan cooling, and all my fans run at a fixed speed.
That way, there is no annoying ramping up and down of
fans. The computer I'm typing this on is rather loud,
but I assure you, it is always cool :-) And yes, I could
make a very complicated technical scheme to control the
fans, but I don't do it.
You can buy fan controllers that fit in disk drive or
floppy bays. This one, for example, takes fans from
all the way off to all the way on. Some controllers
don't have an off position. The lamps that come with
this kit are overkill. While there are many different
brands and models of these things, quite a few of
them are flaky. But there is less stripping of
wires and soldering, using a controller.
On 6 Nov 2006 07:17:59 -0800, "rbt"
<robertbruceshaw@hotmail.com> wrote:
>The switch would break that, or the ground, not
>the red wire to turn the fan(s) off.
>
>is the opposite tru in all states...
>
>The switch would make that, or the power, not
>the black(ground) wire to turn the fan(s) on
>
>no wonder im frightened of it... that how ive been seeing it
>
You'd want the 12V, power lead from the PSU wired to the
middle switch contact (let's call that contact #2).
Wire the fans' positive power leads to switch contact #1 (or
contact #3, pick one or other other and wire them all up to
the same contact).
Wire all the fans' negative, grounds to the black PSU Gnd
wire, they are not switched.
You "could" do it the opposite, switching the ground instead
of the power but there is no reason to do it in your
situation.
power supply wire to the center post
power device wires to side post
ground to ground wires
ok, i can see a circut there...
& i need to ask if this is ok
I have a molex extension & and molex extension wih 3 extra molex plugs
I would like to put the switch into the extension which will hopefully
turn off everything forwad of it
snip the 12v about halfway along the molex extension
wire one end of the cut, the 12V power lead from the PSU to the middle
switch contact #2
Wire the other end of the cut to switch contact #1
Wire all the fans' negative grounds to the black PSU Gnd
Does this achieve the same thing or am I going to be turning off that
whole rail or even blowing it up. I am thinking my advantage is I dont
have to put connectors on half of the wires - yerrr, id rather write
emails...lol..
huge thanks again - you have made it very clear, sorry to muddy it with
the last
kony wrote:
> On 6 Nov 2006 07:17:59 -0800, "rbt"
> <robertbruceshaw@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >The switch would break that, or the ground, not
> >the red wire to turn the fan(s) off.
> >
> >is the opposite tru in all states...
> >
> >The switch would make that, or the power, not
> >the black(ground) wire to turn the fan(s) on
> >
> >no wonder im frightened of it... that how ive been seeing it
> >
>
>
> You'd want the 12V, power lead from the PSU wired to the
> middle switch contact (let's call that contact #2).
>
> Wire the fans' positive power leads to switch contact #1 (or
> contact #3, pick one or other other and wire them all up to
> the same contact).
>
> Wire all the fans' negative, grounds to the black PSU Gnd
> wire, they are not switched.
>
> You "could" do it the opposite, switching the ground instead
> of the power but there is no reason to do it in your
> situation.
power supply wire to the center post
power device wires to side post
ground to ground wires
ok, i can see a circut there...
& i need to ask if this is ok
I have a molex extension & and molex extension wih 3 extra molex plugs
I would like to put the switch into the extension which will hopefully
turn off everything forwad of it
snip the 12v about halfway along the molex extension
wire one end of the cut, the 12V power lead from the PSU to the middle
switch contact #2
Wire the other end of the cut to switch contact #1
Wire all the fans' negative grounds to the black PSU Gnd
Does this achieve the same thing or am I going to be turning off that
whole rail or even blowing it up. I am thinking my advantage is I dont
have to put connectors on half of the wires - yerrr, id rather write
emails...lol..
huge thanks again - you have made it very clear, sorry to muddy it with
the last
kony wrote:
> On 6 Nov 2006 07:17:59 -0800, "rbt"
> <robertbruceshaw@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >The switch would break that, or the ground, not
> >the red wire to turn the fan(s) off.
> >
> >is the opposite tru in all states...
> >
> >The switch would make that, or the power, not
> >the black(ground) wire to turn the fan(s) on
> >
> >no wonder im frightened of it... that how ive been seeing it
> >
>
>
> You'd want the 12V, power lead from the PSU wired to the
> middle switch contact (let's call that contact #2).
>
> Wire the fans' positive power leads to switch contact #1 (or
> contact #3, pick one or other other and wire them all up to
> the same contact).
>
> Wire all the fans' negative, grounds to the black PSU Gnd
> wire, they are not switched.
>
> You "could" do it the opposite, switching the ground instead
> of the power but there is no reason to do it in your
> situation.
On 6 Nov 2006 19:06:03 -0800, "rbt"
<robertbruceshaw@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>I must be dixlestic
>
>power supply wire to the center post
>power device wires to side post
>ground to ground wires
>
>ok, i can see a circut there...
>& i need to ask if this is ok
>
>I have a molex extension & and molex extension wih 3 extra molex plugs
>I would like to put the switch into the extension which will hopefully
>turn off everything forwad of it
yes that'll work
>snip the 12v about halfway along the molex extension
I'd think you need to snip all three 12V leads, since they
usually have 3 wires, one per each socket going to the one
plug.
>wire one end of the cut, the 12V power lead from the PSU to the middle
>switch contact #2
>Wire the other end of the cut to switch contact #1
>Wire all the fans' negative grounds to the black PSU Gnd
yes
>Does this achieve the same thing or am I going to be turning off that
>whole rail or even blowing it up.
No, it will only turn off anything downstream of the switch
on that set of wires.
> I am thinking my advantage is I dont
>have to put connectors on half of the wires - yerrr, id rather write
>emails...lol..
True, so long as all your fans already had connectors to
mate with your splitter/extension cable.
normal use - CPU 30 GPU 41
gaming use - CPU 41 GPU 78
with fans gaming - CPU 31 GPU 43
A great result - many thanks again
kony wrote:
> On 6 Nov 2006 19:06:03 -0800, "rbt"
> <robertbruceshaw@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
> >I must be dixlestic
> >
> >power supply wire to the center post
> >power device wires to side post
> >ground to ground wires
> >
> >ok, i can see a circut there...
> >& i need to ask if this is ok
> >
> >I have a molex extension & and molex extension wih 3 extra molex plugs
> >I would like to put the switch into the extension which will hopefully
> >turn off everything forwad of it
>
> yes that'll work
>
>
>
> >snip the 12v about halfway along the molex extension
>
> I'd think you need to snip all three 12V leads, since they
> usually have 3 wires, one per each socket going to the one
> plug.
>
>
> >wire one end of the cut, the 12V power lead from the PSU to the middle
> >switch contact #2
> >Wire the other end of the cut to switch contact #1
> >Wire all the fans' negative grounds to the black PSU Gnd
>
> yes
>
>
> >Does this achieve the same thing or am I going to be turning off that
> >whole rail or even blowing it up.
>
> No, it will only turn off anything downstream of the switch
> on that set of wires.
>
>
> > I am thinking my advantage is I dont
> >have to put connectors on half of the wires - yerrr, id rather write
> >emails...lol..
>
> True, so long as all your fans already had connectors to
> mate with your splitter/extension cable.
Paul wrote:
> rbt wrote:
> > I am tryiing to wire up three fans.
> > I have a PS cable-adapter that has one male and 3 three female PS
> > plugs.
> > I would like to put in a switch.
> > I have another male-female PS cable bridge and a 3 pole on-off switch.
> > I dont think I should simply break the red with the switch
> >
> > Will three 12v .18a, 12v 15a &12v 3a fans burn out the switch even if
> > it is stamped with [3amp 250vac] & [20amp 125 vac]?
> >
> > In a PS cable-loom, is the Red cable 12volts and the Yellow cable 5
> > volts?.. If so I could split the fans accros the PS positives but I
> > still dont like the idea of the swict being wired directly into the
> > power loom.
> >
> > Can I fit a relay? or am i worring about nothing - it would seems a
> > relay-switch would be safer?
> > Or, with the right wiring is the swith I bought already a built-in
> > relay switch? - it has three poles
> >
> >
> >
> > SOME BACKGROUND
> >
> > I use my machine in two modes, flat-out and idle, so Iv decided to load
> > it up with fans and a on-off switch running off the standard power
> > leads.
> >
> > Ive spent some time with easy-tune5, speedfan, the 4 fan connectors on
> > my Gigabyte GAK8N-SLi & 4 odd-bod collection of cpu & ps fans.
> >
> > Ive been trying to rig them all to go quiet but cant afford a proper
> > fans & solution - so just on and off would be nice.
> >
> > tis
> >
>
> In terms of control, you should aim for a simple setup. You should have
> the "base" set of fans that are always running. You don't need any
> switch in that path. You can use a switch to activate your "extra"
> fans.
>
> (Not that I approve of this plan, as the best way to do it is just
> set the fans up to handle the situation no matter what, as if a friend
> operates your machine, they might forget to flip the switch when needed.
> One poster here, had a switch for his water cooling system,
> his girl friend used his computer, and forgot to switch on the
> water system. Fried CPU according to him.)
>
> First of all, be careful with the wire color, because the color standard
> for disk drive connectors is different than the one for three wire
> fans. So you cannot just wire "yellow to yellow", as that would be
> incorrect. You can find connector pinout information, to verify what
> you are about to do, so don't trust my figures below, but check
> them yourself to be sure.
>
> One way to figure out the wiring on the fan, is open your motherboard
> manual. The manual will label the three fan pins, which are "RPM", "+12V",
> and "Ground". The center pin (red wire) on a three pin fan header
> is +12V. The black wire is ground (so at least that color is consistent).
> The remaining yellow wire is the RPM signal. Fans come either with three
> wires or with two wires, and a two wire fan is missing the yellow RPM signal.
> A two wire fan has a red and a black wire, and red is +12V and black is
> GND.
>
> You don't need the RPM signal, and in this case, I don't see any benefit
> from hooking it up.
>
> The messy part of the job, is the connectors that are on everything.
> If the fans in question, had disk drive power connectors on the end,
> there would be less work to do. If the fans had the small three pin
> connectors on the end, you might consider picking up some Molex
> 4 pin disk drive to 3 pin fan adapter cables, as a quick and easy
> way of getting the wiring right.
>
> With the fan I have sitting in front of me, this is the wiring
> color scheme for the three pin small connector (the connector that
> would normally go to the motherboard fan header). This is the view
> looking into the end of the fan cable's three pin connector. Notice
> that the pin holes are close to the place where the orienting tab
> fits, when the fan connector is plugged into the motherboard.
>
> Fan cable 3 pin connector Molex Drive Connector
>
> +------------------------+ +12V GND GND +5V
> | | Yellow Black Black Red
> | Yellow Red Black | X X X X
> | RPM +12V GND |
> | x x x |
> | ____________________ |
> |_| |_|
>
> To run the fans, all you need is to break the yellow wire on
> the Molex disk drive extender cable, with your switch. Once you
> modify the Molex extender cable, it should only be used for
> your fan system, as switching the power off to a disk drive
> would not be a smart thing to do. You cut the Yellow wire
> on the Molex drive extender assembly (near the source end),
> so that the switch can open or close the Yellow +12V path.
>
> /
> /
> Yellow <---------* *-------->
> Black <---------------------->
> Black <---------------------->
> Red <---------------------->
>
> If you don't plan on getting Molex drive to three pin adapters
> or the like, then the wiring straight from a Molex drive cable
> to the fans would look like this. The Fan_Yellow is optional
> and a computer case fan likely doesn't have an RPM. You don't have
> to wire the RPM signal to anything. Make sure you insulate the end
> of the Fan_Yellow wire, so it doesn't contact anything. The "X"
> here means "No Connection" and "tape off the end".
>
> /
> / X----------- Fan_Yellow (RPM)
> Yellow <---------* *--------> >----------- Fan_Red (+12V)
> Black <----------------------> >----------- Fan_Black (GND)
> Black <---------------------->
> Red <---------------------->
>
> With more than one fan to be controlled by the switch, all the
> fans run in parallel. In other words, all the Fan black wires are
> joined together. All the Fan red wires are joined together. Then
> connect the clump of Fan_Red wires as in the above diagram. Connect
> the clump of Fan_Black wires as above.
>
> If you have a three position rocker switch, the positions would
> be ON-OFF-ON. There are a million different kinds of switches,
> and it is pretty hard to guess at what you've got. If the
> switch has a center row/pins and two end rows/pins, then
> the switch would look like this, logically speaking. You use
> a center pin, and one end pin, to get the switching action.
>
> Rocker switch, three position Wiper closes, center to one end.
>
> /
> |\_____/| /
> |_______| ON * * * ON
> * * *
>
> To use the rocker, you can use a center pin (common) and one
> end pin, like this. This is what it would look like, if I
> was interrupting the flow of current in the Yellow Molex wire.
>
> /
> /
> ON * * * ON
> | |
> | |
> Yellow >-----+ +----> Yellow
>
> If you are still unsure about what you are doing, remember
> that the computer works best with good cooling, and you
> can always select just enough fans to keep the computer
> cool at all times, and leave it that way. I don't modify
> my fan cooling, and all my fans run at a fixed speed.
> That way, there is no annoying ramping up and down of
> fans. The computer I'm typing this on is rather loud,
> but I assure you, it is always cool :-) And yes, I could
> make a very complicated technical scheme to control the
> fans, but I don't do it.
>
> You can buy fan controllers that fit in disk drive or
> floppy bays. This one, for example, takes fans from
> all the way off to all the way on. Some controllers
> don't have an off position. The lamps that come with
> this kit are overkill. While there are many different
> brands and models of these things, quite a few of
> them are flaky. But there is less stripping of
> wires and soldering, using a controller.
>
> VANTEC NXP-305-SL Fan & Light Controller Panel, Silver - Retail
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Custra...82E16813999903
>
> This is the controller part. Three fan control channels. One
> for lights.
>
> http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggIma...999-903-01.JPG
>
> The CCFL lamps that come with this kit are overkill.
>
> http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggIma...999-903-03.JPG
>
> Paul
Basic Switch 
Linear Mode
