> TY for the reply, now a new change... fans don't come on at all and when
> I press my power button, nothing happens... plus my monitor shows
> nothing but the LED light blinks blue like it's in sleep mode... I'm
> guessing that either my motherboard is shot, or power supply, The
> motherboard is like $59 power supply is kinda cheap. I also just found
> out that I did actually get the Job I was hoping to get (GM/Graphics
> designer) but really makes me upset is that I was told that this type of
> computer was totally upgradable (graphics/video, sound, RAM, etc) I just
> found out that the computer can only go 2 gb RAM, it has an integrated
> graphics card, so a no go there...and realtek doesn't support drivers
> for the PC anymore... so thanks alot Bestbuy.
> Thank you again for the reply Ani ^^
If the blue LED was running from the +5VSB output of the power
supply, that could indicate a power supply problem.
The question I've got for you, is if you took the computer
all apart, would you be able to put it all back together
again like you found it ? Putting in a new power supply,
requires putting all those power connectors in the right
Power supplies can be tested, by connecting PS_ON# to COM
pin, on the main connector. You'd completely disconnect
the power supply from the computer (to prevent damage
to the computer). The power supply should have a load
on it, a slight load, to help it maintain regulation.
Then, you can use a multimeter set to the volts range,
to verify the voltages. (I have a home made load box,
to load the supply.)
Now, if you weren't technical at all, you could also connect
PS_ON# to COM, and if the power supply fan spins, pretend all
is well. If the power supply fan does not spin, when PS_ON# is
connected to an adjacent COM pin, then suspect the power supply
is bad. That ignores whether all the output voltages are
correct or not, which is a good thing to check before
connecting any supply back to the computer.
Some computers have been known to be destroyed (motherboard
and hard drive ruined), by a failing power supply. Continuing
to "torture" the existing supply, by perhaps flicking the
power switch on and off rapidly, could result in a lot
of damage to other components in the computer. When I
work on them, I would sooner replace the supply, than
continue beating on the old supply.
To install a new supply, you have to put all the wires back
where they belong, and do a good job of "dressing" the
wires, so none of the extra ones fall into a fan later.
I use nylon wraps, to secure the wires, and don't do
them up so tight that the insulation on the wires is cut.
Page 37 here, shows the power supply main connector. PS_ON# is green.
COM is black. Those are the wires and pins you short together,
to make the fan spin on a power supply (with the supply
disconnected from the computer, if you suspect the supply
is bad). http://www.formfactors.org/developer...public_br2.pdf
Here is a picture of someone starting their supply manually. Since
there are multiple black (COM) wires, you have more choices
for which of those to use. There should only be one
green wire. Any of the black wires would do. http://www.dansdata.com/images/digidoc/runatx360.jpg
It is a messy job, fitting a new supply. If you're methodical,
and take careful notes of where all the wires go, you can do it.
The power supply should have a label on the side. On it, is
printed ratings. Based on those ratings, you can select
another supply. Here is an example. At the very least,
I want a power supply that has customer reviews, so I
can determine if they're crap or not. So I would not
just do an Internet search for "T5082 power supply" and
buy the first one I found. http://www.cputopia.com/emachine-480...ies-t5082.html
What is a trifle weird about that example supply, is it still
has a minus 5 volt rail on it. That means the designer of the
supply, wants it to support virtually any computer from the
last 10 years or more. You can check you own supply, and
see if there is a wire where pin 20 should be. Notice in the
formfactors document, that pin 20 is marked as "reserved",
meaning on a modern computer, they've dropped the requirement
for that wire. So part of due diligence, is to check the
supply you have right now, and see if that pin is missing.
It makes it easier to replace the supply, if pin 20 on a 24
pin is missing (as most of the new supplies, won't have a
pin 20 present).
I looked for a supply in the ballpark for the job, and
this one has good reviews. The second link, is to a picture
of the ratings. You can compare that to the existing supply,
and see whether it meets or exceeds the requirements. This
supply is 80% efficient, which means it will run a bit cooler
than the previous supply. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139003 http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggIma...139-003-06.jpg
(Click the "resource" link, to see more info. The supply has a
2x4 pin connector for the processor, which "unhinges" to give
a 2x2 connector suitable for your motherboard. So this should work.) http://www.corsair.com/products/vx/default.aspx
So that is the basic idea. But you still need to check the
label on your supply, to see what kind of load it could
support. Based on a guess at the power, the real load of
your system is probably around 160W or so. And it might not
really have an excessive requirement for 3.3V and 5V. But
that supply should give you a reliable result, based on
the reviews being good.