> "Paul" <email@example.com> wrote in message
>> Dave wrote:
>>> Was going to replace the failing hard drive, and bought an IDE
>>> replacement on the advice of someone I can no longer remember. Now it
>>> doesn't look like the drive that is in there. It has what looks like a
>>> 40-pin SCSI connector, and the drive in my Compaq SR1522X has a small
>>> connector that fits over an edge connector about the size of a USB port.
>>> Looks like it has 10 or 12 contacts on the top and bottom of the edge
>>> connector. Is this a SATA device? How can I find out what I am actually
>>> trying to replace? Used to repair mini-systems in a business
>>> environment, and PCs are a whole new experience for me. My background
>>> and strength is electronics, but I am willing to takle anything. Would
>>> greatly appreciate any advice or assistance anyone has to offer.
>>> Many thanks,
>> The upper left hand pictures on page 9 may help distinguish
>> between SATA and IDE. IDE uses a relatively wide ribbon.
>> SATA is a wafer contact connector. A proper SATA power cable,
>> has five fat wires coming in, going to fifteen contacts (three per rail).
>> Some power adapter cables only provide four wires, and lack
>> the 3.3V power rail. This is not normally a problem, as many
>> drives are still using nothing but +5V and +12V. Only certain
>> tiny SSD drives (perhaps now out of production), have a need for +3.3V.
>> The data cable is thin, and has 7 wafers for contacts. TX diff
>> pair, RX diff pair, and three grounds (so-called "drain" wires).
>> All the data for the drive, travels serially, at a very high speed.
>> The communication is full duplex, as the RX and TX directions are
>> independent. The diff pairs have shielding, inside the red plastic cover.
>> The SATA connector was originally designed, for usage in a "back plane"
>> scenario. That allows server boxes to be built, where 24 drives front-load
>> and slide into place. And the connector has enough capture, that the drive
>> connector just snaps into place. Usage in a desktop was an afterthought.
>> That's why the connector sections, are mounted in the same plastic
>> framework, to aid capture. Notice as well, that the wafer contacts are
>> different lengths - this allows things like advanced power and ground,
>> and protects against illegal signal levels showing up by accident.
>> If the ground signal connects first, it helps ensure the polarity of
>> the other signal leads remains correct. So the contacts were never
>> intended to be exactly the same length, and it's for a reason.
>> Later versions of SATA connectors, have latching mechanisms added.
>> The first generation of connectors were horrible, and could
>> fall off while the drive was running. Having recognized their
>> stupid mistake, later generations of connector designs,
>> attempted to fix this. The metal latch shown in your SR1522X manual,
>> is an attempt to keep the connectors from falling off.
> So, is there any significant difference between SATA and SATA III interfaced
> drives? Will a SATA III drive work in my seven or eight year old computer?
> Or do I even need to worry about such things. The connecters on my cables
> clip into place, and hold tight. At least that much I can tell. But that's
> all... :)
> Thank you for this info. I need to do a lot of homework, as I a supposed to
> install 4GB of RAM in this puppy as well. Any idea where I could find help
> with that task?
> 'preciate it...
Like other attempts at disk standards, they try to make them backward
compatible. So it is supposed to work with older gear, autonegotiate
data rate and so on.
I have some Seagate drives here, with the four pin "jumper block" on the
front, and one jumper position used to be called "Force150". That would
cause a SATA II drive to run at SATA I rates (150MB/sec). That was necessitated
by some VIA chipsets (early 8237 perhaps), that did not negotiate properly.
The jumper to use, is "2mm" size, not "0.1 inch" size. The last time I
needed one, I had to search all over the house to find a 2mm jumper. I
have precisely one bag of the little ones. Using the wrong size jumper,
risks breaking the jumper block.
Other brands of drives, may have no jumper block at all. Hitachi drives,
you connect their hard drive to a "capable" computer, and use software
to "force" the rate permanently. The drive remembers, between sessions,
it's to stay at 150MB/sec.
So there are techniques for "balky" SATA.
Let's just hope they're not needed.
I can't say I'm all that happy with the newer SATA drives,
but I don't want to write a book about why... Always read
the reviews before buying a particular model of drive. I use
the reviews on Newegg, and search their site with a potential
disk model number. That helped me select the piece of crap I bought
the other day.
For RAM, you can use the Crucial.com or Kingston.com search engines,
where you enter the model details (manufacturer, model number), and
they give a list of potential RAM solutions.
Faster RAM, can be used on slower setups. The Crucial site, when
you search there, may indeed list a faster RAM than the manufacturer
lists, and it's because the BIOS will set the speed to the slower
value for you.
Crucial 3 level menu...
2x1GB matched kit, PC2-5300 (for your PC2-3200 application) http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartsp...277234A5CA7304
I got the speed info, from Pen's link: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/d...product=501581
* Manufacturer: Asus
* Motherboard Name: PTGD-LA
* HP/Compaq motherboard name: Goldfish3-GL8E
Speed supported PC2 3200 MB/sec <---- what HP thinks
Type 240 pin, DDR2 SDRAM
What I do, if there are any concerns, is also check the
datasheet, for information. I use the "915GV" for that.
30146705.pdf (Intel datasheet)
30167003.pdf (915 memory guide)
"Table 1. Memory Technology Support
DRAM Technology Smallest Increments Largest Increments Maximum Capacity
(One SS DIMM) (One DS DIMM) (Four DS DIMMs)
--------- ----------- ------------ ---------
256 Mb 128 MB 512 MB 2048 MB
512 Mb 256 MB 1024 MB 4096 MB
1 Gb 512 MB 2000 MB 8000 MB (Note 1)
NOTE 1: This exceeds a 32-bit address limit of 4 GB. In a 32-bit system,
only the first 4 GB of memory will be accessible."
The good news from this table, is the motherboard should support
2GB technology DIMMs. That means, when you buy a 1GB DDR2 DIMM
(like they tell you to), it should not matter whether it has 8 chips
(single sided) or 16 chips (double sided). It means you could potentially
buy from more sources (even Kingston), without having to worry
about whether it's recognized. Kingston has been known to mix single
and double sided solutions when they sell modern RAM, which is
why I check whether it's an issue.
On my motherboard with the VIA chipset, I have to be careful to use
the 16 chip DIMMs. So it does matter in some cases.
So Crucial listed PC2-5300 as their solution, which should
be backward compatible with the PC2-3200 listed for your system.
You could go to some website selling DDR2 UDIMMs, and look
around for something there if you want. The chipset doesn't
support ECC or anything.
Since you're buying all new, it won't be a problem to get
a couple of kits of matched pairs. For best results (and
ability to resell the RAM later as "pairs").