I just built a new computer, and when I turn it on, it turns off in about 4
seconds. I hear a longish beep, and all 4 fans in the system are turning
before the whole thing shuts down. There is no time for anything to show up
on the monitor. The system is as follows:
CASE - COOMAS|CAC-T05-UB BLK/BL RT
PSU - SUNBEAM|SUNNU450-US-BK 450W RT
MB - ASUS M2N-MX GF6100 AM2
CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
MEM - 1G|OCZ DII800 OCZ2P800LP1G R
HD - 120G|WD 7K 8M SATA2 WD1200JS
The Power supply has this temp monitor fan controller thing, and it shows a
temp of about 25 C, before the computer shuts down. I've tried starting
with the knob at high, low, and auto, with the same results, that is shut
down in about 4 seconds.
I tried to boot before I installed the drives, and got the same results.
"Jack Bruss" <jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:458216af$0$7076$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>I just built a new computer, and when I turn it on, it turns off in about 4
>seconds. I hear a longish beep, and all 4 fans in the system are turning
>before the whole thing shuts down. There is no time for anything to show
>up on the monitor. The system is as follows:
>
> CASE - COOMAS|CAC-T05-UB BLK/BL RT
> PSU - SUNBEAM|SUNNU450-US-BK 450W RT
> MB - ASUS M2N-MX GF6100 AM2
> CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
> MEM - 1G|OCZ DII800 OCZ2P800LP1G R
> HD - 120G|WD 7K 8M SATA2 WD1200JS
>
> The Power supply has this temp monitor fan controller thing, and it shows
> a temp of about 25 C, before the computer shuts down. I've tried starting
> with the knob at high, low, and auto, with the same results, that is shut
> down in about 4 seconds.
>
> I tried to boot before I installed the drives, and got the same results.
>
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
>
"Jack Bruss" <jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:458216af$0$7076$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>I just built a new computer, and when I turn it on, it turns off in about 4
>seconds. I hear a longish beep, and all 4 fans in the system are turning
>before the whole thing shuts down. There is no time for anything to show
>up on the monitor. The system is as follows:
>
> CASE - COOMAS|CAC-T05-UB BLK/BL RT
> PSU - SUNBEAM|SUNNU450-US-BK 450W RT
> MB - ASUS M2N-MX GF6100 AM2
> CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
> MEM - 1G|OCZ DII800 OCZ2P800LP1G R
> HD - 120G|WD 7K 8M SATA2 WD1200JS
>
> The Power supply has this temp monitor fan controller thing, and it shows
> a temp of about 25 C, before the computer shuts down. I've tried starting
> with the knob at high, low, and auto, with the same results, that is shut
> down in about 4 seconds.
>
> I tried to boot before I installed the drives, and got the same results.
>
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
>
-----------------------------------------------
That particular DDR2-800 memory needs 2.2V and is geared more towards
overclockers, but I believe that motherboard supplies a maximum of 2.0V to
the memory and is not the best board choice for high voltage memory. Your
memory is probably not supported, so I'd go to the Asus site to get a list
of QVL memory for that motherboard, then do a memory exchange. if you can
get your hands on some DDR2-533 1.8V memory just to see if it'll boot up,
that could rule out other possibilities.
Also, double-check that both 12V power cords are plugged into the
motherboard.
could be your power supply. Had same type of problem with an Antec Sonata II
Power supply 450 watt
--
Love and Teach, Not Yell and Beat
Stop Violence and Child Abuse.
No such thing as Bad Kids. Only Bad Parents.
The most horrible feeling in the world is knowing that No One is There to
Protect You.
A64 3500+, Gigabyte GA-K8NSC-939,AIW 9800 Pro 128mb
MSI 550 Pro, X-Fi, Pioneer 110D, 111D
Antec 550 watt,Thermaltake Lanfire,2 Gb OCZ Platinum 2-3-2-5
2XSATA 320gb Raid Edition, PATA 120Gb
XP MCE2005, 19in Viewsonic,BenchMark 2001 SE- 19074
Games I'm Playing- Falcon 4, winSPWW2, winSPMBT, Call of Duty War Chest
> "Jack Bruss" <jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:458216af$0$7076$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> >I just built a new computer, and when I turn it on, it turns off in about 4
> >seconds. I hear a longish beep, and all 4 fans in the system are turning
> >before the whole thing shuts down. There is no time for anything to show
> >up on the monitor. The system is as follows:
> >
> > CASE - COOMAS|CAC-T05-UB BLK/BL RT
> > PSU - SUNBEAM|SUNNU450-US-BK 450W RT
> > MB - ASUS M2N-MX GF6100 AM2
> > CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
> > MEM - 1G|OCZ DII800 OCZ2P800LP1G R
> > HD - 120G|WD 7K 8M SATA2 WD1200JS
> >
<...>
> > down in about 4 seconds.
> >
> > I tried to boot before I installed the drives, and got the same results.
> >
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jack
Russell generously responded:
> -----------------------------------------------
> That particular DDR2-800 memory needs 2.2V and is geared more towards
> overclockers, but I believe that motherboard supplies a maximum of 2.0V to
> the memory and is not the best board choice for high voltage memory. Your
> memory is probably not supported, so I'd go to the Asus site to get a list
> of QVL memory for that motherboard, then do a memory exchange. if you can
> get your hands on some DDR2-533 1.8V memory just to see if it'll boot up,
> that could rule out other possibilities.
>
> Also, double-check that both 12V power cords are plugged into the
> motherboard.
>
> -Russell
> http://tastycomputers.com
Jack, I'll throw in my two-cents here. I believe Russell is being kind.
What I'm seeing on the Anandtech forum is that (variants of)this MB are
causing LOTS of headaches, with regard to low RAM voltages in
particular. Though AMD did put together a good rig using the M2NBP-VM
CSM mated with the NVIDIA Quadro NVS 210S + nForce 430, it (the M2N)
seems awful damn touchy about which components it's mated with. I
haven't checked on whether the suffix on the board model means a lot. My
opinion, which is affected by low intellect and bad upbringing, is that
the ASUS MN2 board is more headaches than it's worth($100); probably
more trouble than the time you'll spend getting it to work right. Maybe
more experienced types can suggest something other than this nuclear option. http://avs.amd.com/Home-Page/Best-of...m-Provide.aspx
On Thu, 14 Dec 2006 21:20:53 -0700, "RussellS"
<rsullivan@tastycomputersdotcom_replace"dot"with". "> wrote:
>> MB - ASUS M2N-MX GF6100 AM2
>> MEM - 1G|OCZ DII800 OCZ2P800LP1G R
>> The Power supply has this temp monitor fan controller thing, and it shows
>> a temp of about 25 C, before the computer shuts down. I've tried starting
>> with the knob at high, low, and auto, with the same results, that is shut
>> down in about 4 seconds.
>>
>> I tried to boot before I installed the drives, and got the same results.
>>
>That particular DDR2-800 memory needs 2.2V and is geared more towards
>overclockers, but I believe that motherboard supplies a maximum of 2.0V to
>the memory and is not the best board choice for high voltage memory. Your
>memory is probably not supported, so I'd go to the Asus site to get a list
>of QVL memory for that motherboard, then do a memory exchange. if you can
>get your hands on some DDR2-533 1.8V memory just to see if it'll boot up,
>that could rule out other possibilities.
>
>Also, double-check that both 12V power cords are plugged into the
>motherboard.
Instable memory should not turn off the system in 4 seconds,
it would merely fail to post or crash.
This kind of problem is more often one of two sources:
1) PSU itself isn't staying within accepted voltage ranges
and shuts off. Might be defective, might be powering
defective parts, or a general system build error has shorted
something (doubtful since it stays on 4 seconds).
The PSU might be checked with a multimeter, monitored right
up until the point of shutdown.
2) Motherboard cause, either bios sensor reading out of
range (like voltage or fan RPM), or hardware shutdown like
CPU temp (particularly if heatsink isn't making contact- a
merely marginal heatsink installation wouldn't be bad enough
to hit overheat threshold within 4 seconds from cold-off
state, it'd have to be removed and the interface inspected
to determine this as 4 seconds isn't likely enough time to
get to the bios health monitor page to see any readings.
Jack Bruss wrote:
>
> I just built a new computer, and when I turn it on, it turns off in about 4
> seconds. I hear a longish beep, and all 4 fans in the system are turning
> before the whole thing shuts down. There is no time for anything to show up
> on the monitor. The system is as follows:
>
> CASE - COOMAS|CAC-T05-UB BLK/BL RT
> PSU - SUNBEAM|SUNNU450-US-BK 450W RT
> MB - ASUS M2N-MX GF6100 AM2
> CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
> MEM - 1G|OCZ DII800 OCZ2P800LP1G R
> HD - 120G|WD 7K 8M SATA2 WD1200JS
>
> The Power supply has this temp monitor fan controller thing, and it shows a
> temp of about 25 C, before the computer shuts down. I've tried starting
> with the knob at high, low, and auto, with the same results, that is shut
> down in about 4 seconds.
>
> I tried to boot before I installed the drives, and got the same results.
Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check your wiring
job in regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic
4 second delay is exactly the effect you would get if power-off were being held
down.
Robert Heiling wrote:
> Jack Bruss wrote:
> >
> > I just built a new computer, and when I turn it on, it turns off in about 4
> > seconds. I hear a longish beep, and all 4 fans in the system are turning
> > before the whole thing shuts down. There is no time for anything to show up
> > on the monitor. The system is as follows:
> >
> > CASE - COOMAS|CAC-T05-UB BLK/BL RT
> > PSU - SUNBEAM|SUNNU450-US-BK 450W RT
> > MB - ASUS M2N-MX GF6100 AM2
> > CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
> > MEM - 1G|OCZ DII800 OCZ2P800LP1G R
> > HD - 120G|WD 7K 8M SATA2 WD1200JS
> >
> > The Power supply has this temp monitor fan controller thing, and it shows a
> > temp of about 25 C, before the computer shuts down. I've tried starting
> > with the knob at high, low, and auto, with the same results, that is shut
> > down in about 4 seconds.
> >
> > I tried to boot before I installed the drives, and got the same results.
>
> Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check your wiring
> job in regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic
> 4 second delay is exactly the effect you would get if power-off were being held
> down.
>
> Bob
I can't check this until tonight, but do you mean the LED connections?
I know on some of them, it was not clear which way they should go on.
kony wrote:
> On Thu, 14 Dec 2006 21:20:53 -0700, "RussellS"
> <rsullivan@tastycomputersdotcom_replace"dot"with". "> wrote:
>
>
> >> MB - ASUS M2N-MX GF6100 AM2
> >> MEM - 1G|OCZ DII800 OCZ2P800LP1G R
>
> >> The Power supply has this temp monitor fan controller thing, and it shows
> >> a temp of about 25 C, before the computer shuts down. I've tried starting
> >> with the knob at high, low, and auto, with the same results, that is shut
> >> down in about 4 seconds.
> >>
> >> I tried to boot before I installed the drives, and got the same results.
> >>
>
> >That particular DDR2-800 memory needs 2.2V and is geared more towards
> >overclockers, but I believe that motherboard supplies a maximum of 2.0V to
> >the memory and is not the best board choice for high voltage memory. Your
> >memory is probably not supported, so I'd go to the Asus site to get a list
> >of QVL memory for that motherboard, then do a memory exchange. if you can
> >get your hands on some DDR2-533 1.8V memory just to see if it'll boot up,
> >that could rule out other possibilities.
> >
> >Also, double-check that both 12V power cords are plugged into the
> >motherboard.
>
> Instable memory should not turn off the system in 4 seconds,
> it would merely fail to post or crash.
>
> This kind of problem is more often one of two sources:
>
> 1) PSU itself isn't staying within accepted voltage ranges
> and shuts off. Might be defective, might be powering
> defective parts, or a general system build error has shorted
> something (doubtful since it stays on 4 seconds).
>
It would be ironic if the PSU were the problem. In the past computers
I've built I always purchased the cheapest case/PSU combo I could find
and had no problems. This time I bought in to the advice to get a good
PSU, and here I am with a no start! Sigh...
> The PSU might be checked with a multimeter, monitored right
> up until the point of shutdown.
>
> 2) Motherboard cause, either bios sensor reading out of
> range (like voltage or fan RPM), or hardware shutdown like
> CPU temp (particularly if heatsink isn't making contact- a
> merely marginal heatsink installation wouldn't be bad enough
> to hit overheat threshold within 4 seconds from cold-off
> state, it'd have to be removed and the interface inspected
> to determine this as 4 seconds isn't likely enough time to
> get to the bios health monitor page to see any readings.
"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:mrd5o2dir42i3abrgkido1gcr4gujm3i62@4ax.com...
>
> Instable memory should not turn off the system in 4 seconds,
> it would merely fail to post or crash.
>
> This kind of problem is more often one of two sources:
>
> 1) PSU itself isn't staying within accepted voltage ranges
> and shuts off. Might be defective, might be powering
> defective parts, or a general system build error has shorted
> something (doubtful since it stays on 4 seconds).
>
> The PSU might be checked with a multimeter, monitored right
> up until the point of shutdown.
>
> 2) Motherboard cause, either bios sensor reading out of
> range (like voltage or fan RPM), or hardware shutdown like
> CPU temp (particularly if heatsink isn't making contact- a
> merely marginal heatsink installation wouldn't be bad enough
> to hit overheat threshold within 4 seconds from cold-off
> state, it'd have to be removed and the interface inspected
> to determine this as 4 seconds isn't likely enough time to
> get to the bios health monitor page to see any readings.
-------------------------------------------
Although I'd more likely concur with older chipsets, DDR2-based boards are
increasingly picky about memory. When the NFORCE430 and P965/G965 chipsets
were first released, I had problems with some custom builds, whereby the
system wouldn't reach a POST screen, but symptomatically power on, then
power off in a never-ending cycle every 3-4 seconds until memory was
exchanged for more compatible sticks, immediately solving the issue with no
other component or settings changes. Since the OP was mentioning identical
symptoms, and is using memory out-of-spec for his board, I suspect memory
being the culprit.
"OSbandito" <OSbandito@news.cox.net> wrote in message
news:45824A0F.ECA38C94@news.cox.net...
> *snip*
> "My opinion, which is affected by low intellect and bad upbringing"
-------------------------------
That's hysterical...I love your sense of humor!
>> 1) PSU itself isn't staying within accepted voltage ranges
>> and shuts off. Might be defective, might be powering
>> defective parts, or a general system build error has shorted
>> something (doubtful since it stays on 4 seconds).
>>
>It would be ironic if the PSU were the problem. In the past computers
>I've built I always purchased the cheapest case/PSU combo I could find
>and had no problems. This time I bought in to the advice to get a good
>PSU, and here I am with a no start! Sigh...
Systems use more power now, you'd be even more likely to
have a psu problem, or at least early death, with the
typical cheapest came-with-case unit.
Given a low(er) powered integrated system, as you may have
with the integrated video (and sound, lan to lesser extent),
many of the branded PSU that come with newer-generation
cases might do fine.
<jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1166205755.382533.295530@73g2000cwn.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Robert Heiling wrote:
>> Jack Bruss wrote:
>> >
>> > I just built a new computer, and when I turn it on, it turns off in
>> > about 4
>> > seconds. I hear a longish beep, and all 4 fans in the system are
>> > turning
>> > before the whole thing shuts down. There is no time for anything to
>> > show up
>> > on the monitor. The system is as follows:
>> >
>> > CASE - COOMAS|CAC-T05-UB BLK/BL RT
>> > PSU - SUNBEAM|SUNNU450-US-BK 450W RT
>> > MB - ASUS M2N-MX GF6100 AM2
>> > CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
>> > MEM - 1G|OCZ DII800 OCZ2P800LP1G R
>> > HD - 120G|WD 7K 8M SATA2 WD1200JS
>> >
>> > The Power supply has this temp monitor fan controller thing, and it
>> > shows a
>> > temp of about 25 C, before the computer shuts down. I've tried
>> > starting
>> > with the knob at high, low, and auto, with the same results, that is
>> > shut
>> > down in about 4 seconds.
>> >
>> > I tried to boot before I installed the drives, and got the same
>> > results.
>>
>> Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check your
>> wiring
>> job in regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins.
>> Your magic
>> 4 second delay is exactly the effect you would get if power-off were
>> being held
>> down.
>>
>> Bob
>
> I can't check this until tonight, but do you mean the LED connections?
> I know on some of them, it was not clear which way they should go on.
>
> Jack
>
The LED connections wouldn't have any affect on whether the comp stayed on
or not. If the connectors were placed backword the LEDs simply would not
light. But if you are skeptical if you've got them right then it certainly
would be a good thing to recheck the manual.. I lean towards PS problems
myself..
> Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check your wiring job in regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic 4 second delay is exactly the effect you would get if power-off were being held down.
>
Bob Good answer--hitting the basics first. But you should warn him:
if he got his wires crossed, he will have to remove his shorts.
OSbandito wrote:
>
> Robert Heiling wrote:
>
> > Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check your wiring job in regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic 4 second delay is exactly the effect you would get if power-off were being held down.
> >
>
> Bob Good answer--hitting the basics first. But you should warn him:
> if he got his wires crossed, he will have to remove his shorts.
OSbandito wrote:
> Robert Heiling wrote:
>
> > Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check your wiring job in regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic 4 second delay is exactly the effect you would get if power-off were being held down.
> >
>
>
> Bob Good answer--hitting the basics first. But you should warn him:
> if he got his wires crossed, he will have to remove his shorts.
Well, I've tried reversing the power on wires, removing the reset
wires, removing and replacing the heat sink/fan, and moving the memory
to a different slot, and there has been no change. I don't have spare
mbs, memory, or PSUs lying around, so I guess I'll go buy a power
supply first, and try that.
you covered the gambit of 'free' things to do...
PSUs are the most important hardware in the rig, only recently(18 months or
so) this has been so much more a truism.
<jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1166225499.598770.266080@16g2000cwy.googlegro ups.com...
>
> OSbandito wrote:
>> Robert Heiling wrote:
>>
>> > Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check
>> > your wiring job in regard to the power-on and reset buttons and
>> > motherboard pins. Your magic 4 second delay is exactly the effect you
>> > would get if power-off were being held down.
>> >
>>
>>
>> Bob Good answer--hitting the basics first. But you should warn him:
>> if he got his wires crossed, he will have to remove his shorts.
>
> Well, I've tried reversing the power on wires, removing the reset
> wires, removing and replacing the heat sink/fan, and moving the memory
> to a different slot, and there has been no change. I don't have spare
> mbs, memory, or PSUs lying around, so I guess I'll go buy a power
> supply first, and try that.
>
> Thanks for the advice, and keep it coming.
>
> Jack
>
jbruss@wi.rr.com wrote:
>
> OSbandito wrote:
> > Robert Heiling wrote:
> >
> > > Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check your wiring job in regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic 4 second delay is exactly the effect you would get if power-off were being held down.
> > >
> >
> >
> > Bob Good answer--hitting the basics first. But you should warn him:
> > if he got his wires crossed, he will have to remove his shorts.
>
> Well, I've tried reversing the power on wires, removing the reset
> wires,
I wouldn't be comfortable with what you describe. Why don't you simply remove
all connections to those 10 sets of pins -LED, Reset, Speaker, Power - All of
them! Then briefly short the Power pins. If the behavior is still the same, then
you've ruled those out.
> removing and replacing the heat sink/fan, and moving the memory
> to a different slot, and there has been no change. I don't have spare
> mbs, memory, or PSUs lying around, so I guess I'll go buy a power
> supply first, and try that.
>
> Thanks for the advice, and keep it coming.
But if it comes on and stays on, you'll know where to look for one problem.
On Fri, 15 Dec 2006 21:44:45 GMT, "Jan Alter"
<bearpuf@verizon.net> wrote:
>The LED connections wouldn't have any affect on whether the comp stayed on
>or not. If the connectors were placed backword the LEDs simply would not
>light. But if you are skeptical if you've got them right then it certainly
>would be a good thing to recheck the manual.. I lean towards PS problems
>myself..
It is true, LED connectors being reversed polarity wouldn't
in itself cause this, but wrong connector block wiring,
particularly to one of the OEM or (more elaborate new cases
with several function circuit boards in front) other cases
could conceivably route LED or other logical connections
where they shouldn't be. Thus, the safest bet is to unplug
all such wiring and turn system on by momentarily shorting
the two power-on pins together with a metallic object.
Robert Heiling wrote:
> jbruss@wi.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > OSbandito wrote:
> > > Robert Heiling wrote:
> > >
> > > > Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check your wiring job in regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic 4 second delay is exactly the effect you would get if power-off were being held down.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bob Good answer--hitting the basics first. But you should warn him:
> > > if he got his wires crossed, he will have to remove his shorts.
> >
> > Well, I've tried reversing the power on wires, removing the reset
> > wires,
>
> I wouldn't be comfortable with what you describe. Why don't you simply remove
> all connections to those 10 sets of pins -LED, Reset, Speaker, Power - All of
> them! Then briefly short the Power pins. If the behavior is still the same, then
> you've ruled those out.
>
> > removing and replacing the heat sink/fan, and moving the memory
> > to a different slot, and there has been no change. I don't have spare
> > mbs, memory, or PSUs lying around, so I guess I'll go buy a power
> > supply first, and try that.
> >
> > Thanks for the advice, and keep it coming.
>
> But if it comes on and stays on, you'll know where to look for one problem.
>
> Bob
I just located an older 20 pin PSU in my basement, but my mb needs a 24
pin. Is there any way to use this old PSU, just to see if it fixes the
problem before I buy a new one?
<jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1166273932.297913.306380@79g2000cws.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Robert Heiling wrote:
>> jbruss@wi.rr.com wrote:
>> >
>> > OSbandito wrote:
>> > > Robert Heiling wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out.
>> > > > Double-check your wiring job in regard to the power-on and reset
>> > > > buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic 4 second delay is exactly
>> > > > the effect you would get if power-off were being held down.
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Bob Good answer--hitting the basics first. But you should warn him:
>> > > if he got his wires crossed, he will have to remove his shorts.
>> >
>> > Well, I've tried reversing the power on wires, removing the reset
>> > wires,
>>
>> I wouldn't be comfortable with what you describe. Why don't you simply
>> remove
>> all connections to those 10 sets of pins -LED, Reset, Speaker, Power -
>> All of
>> them! Then briefly short the Power pins. If the behavior is still the
>> same, then
>> you've ruled those out.
>>
>> > removing and replacing the heat sink/fan, and moving the memory
>> > to a different slot, and there has been no change. I don't have spare
>> > mbs, memory, or PSUs lying around, so I guess I'll go buy a power
>> > supply first, and try that.
>> >
>> > Thanks for the advice, and keep it coming.
>>
>> But if it comes on and stays on, you'll know where to look for one
>> problem.
>>
>> Bob
>
> I just located an older 20 pin PSU in my basement, but my mb needs a 24
> pin. Is there any way to use this old PSU, just to see if it fixes the
> problem before I buy a new one?
>
But check to see if that old PS you found in the basement would have
enough watts to power up your board if you had an adapter to fit it 20 to
24.
--
Jan Alter bearpuf@verizon.net
or jalter@phila.k12.pa.us
> It is true, LED connectors being reversed polarity wouldn't
> in itself cause this, but wrong connector block wiring,
> particularly to one of the OEM or (more elaborate new cases
> with several function circuit boards in front) other cases
> could conceivably route LED or other logical connections
> where they shouldn't be. Thus, the safest bet is to unplug
> all such wiring and turn system on by momentarily shorting
> the two power-on pins together with a metallic object.
Just tried that - didn't work. One thing seems odd to me. Even though
I had the speaker wire off, I still heard the one long beep when I
switched on the power.
It's a 200 W PSU, but it should be enough to power the board with ease,
right? I don't think I even have to hook up the drives to see if this
fixes the problem.
If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig
with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable
test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't
have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video
card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin
cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't
--
Jan Alter bearpuf@verizon.net
or jalter@phila.k12.pa.us
<jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1166275153.169274.53310@79g2000cws.googlegrou ps.com...
>> Do you mean something like this?
>>
>> http://www.xpcgear.com/20to24pinatx.html
>>
>> But check to see if that old PS you found in the basement would have
>> enough watts to power up your board if you had an adapter to fit it 20 to
>> 24.
>> --
>> Jan Alter
>> bearpuf@verizon.net
>> or
>> jalter@phila.k12.pa.us
>
> It's a 200 W PSU, but it should be enough to power the board with ease,
> right? I don't think I even have to hook up the drives to see if this
> fixes the problem.
>
Jan Alter wrote:
> CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
>
> If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig
> with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable
> test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't
> have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video
> card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin
> cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't
> --
> Jan Alter
> bearpuf@verizon.net
Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out
and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can
return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with
an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good
test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today.
jbruss@wi.rr.com wrote:
> Jan Alter wrote:
> > CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
> >
> > If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig
> > with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable
> > test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't
> > have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video
> > card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin
> > cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't
> > --
> > Jan Alter
> > bearpuf@verizon.net
> Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out
> and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can
> return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with
> an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good
> test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today.
>
I just put in a new PSU, an Antec SmartPower 2.0 400 Watt, and the same
thing happens, except that now I don't hear the beep. Maybe that means
the beep was coming from the fan speed monitoring unit on the original
PSU? Anyway, any thoughts on what I ought to do next - besides return
the PSU I just bought.
<jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message news:1166273932.297913.306380@79g2000cws.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Robert Heiling wrote:
> > jbruss@wi.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > OSbandito wrote:
> > > > Robert Heiling wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll toss this out. Double-check your wiring job in
regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic 4 second delay is exactly
the effect you would get if power-off were being held down.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bob Good answer--hitting the basics first. But you should warn him:
> > > > if he got his wires crossed, he will have to remove his shorts.
> > >
> > > Well, I've tried reversing the power on wires, removing the reset
> > > wires,
> >
> > I wouldn't be comfortable with what you describe. Why don't you simply remove
> > all connections to those 10 sets of pins -LED, Reset, Speaker, Power - All of
> > them! Then briefly short the Power pins. If the behavior is still the same, then
> > you've ruled those out.
> >
> > > removing and replacing the heat sink/fan, and moving the memory
> > > to a different slot, and there has been no change. I don't have spare
> > > mbs, memory, or PSUs lying around, so I guess I'll go buy a power
> > > supply first, and try that.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the advice, and keep it coming.
> >
> > But if it comes on and stays on, you'll know where to look for one problem.
> >
> > Bob
>
> I just located an older 20 pin PSU in my basement, but my mb needs a 24
> pin. Is there any way to use this old PSU, just to see if it fixes the
> problem before I buy a new one?
>
NOOOOOOOOO you cannot skimp on the supply. That supply is most likely a 200w / 300w and is going to
fall way short of supplying enough power.
<jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message news:1166277813.646779.208260@79g2000cws.googlegro ups.com...
>
> Jan Alter wrote:
> > CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
> >
> > If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig
> > with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable
> > test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't
> > have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video
> > card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin
> > cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't
> > --
> > Jan Alter
> > bearpuf@verizon.net
> Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out
> and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can
> return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with
> an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good
> test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today.
>
> thanks,
>
<jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message news:1166287862.580819.129960@79g2000cws.googlegro ups.com...
>
> jbruss@wi.rr.com wrote:
> > Jan Alter wrote:
> > > CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
> > >
> > > If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig
> > > with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable
> > > test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't
> > > have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video
> > > card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin
> > > cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't
> > > --
> > > Jan Alter
> > > bearpuf@verizon.net
> > Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out
> > and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can
> > return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with
> > an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good
> > test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today.
> >
>
> I just put in a new PSU, an Antec SmartPower 2.0 400 Watt, and the same
> thing happens, except that now I don't hear the beep. Maybe that means
> the beep was coming from the fan speed monitoring unit on the original
> PSU? Anyway, any thoughts on what I ought to do next - besides return
> the PSU I just bought.
>
> Jack
> > thanks,
> >
> > Jack
>
im back to the heatsink and fan assembly. if the sink is on 180 defgrees round there will be a gap
between the sink and the cpu.
<jbruss@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1166287862.580819.129960@79g2000cws.googlegro ups.com...
>
> jbruss@wi.rr.com wrote:
>> Jan Alter wrote:
>> > CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
>> >
>> > If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power
>> > the rig
>> > with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a
>> > reliable
>> > test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You
>> > wouldn't
>> > have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and
>> > video
>> > card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish
>> > 4 pin
>> > cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't
>> > --
>> > Jan Alter
>> > bearpuf@verizon.net
>> Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out
>> and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can
>> return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with
>> an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good
>> test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today.
>>
>
> I just put in a new PSU, an Antec SmartPower 2.0 400 Watt, and the same
> thing happens, except that now I don't hear the beep. Maybe that means
> the beep was coming from the fan speed monitoring unit on the original
> PSU? Anyway, any thoughts on what I ought to do next - besides return
> the PSU I just bought.
>
> Jack
>> thanks,
>>
>> Jack
>
Well that's disconcerting. As Robert mentioned, disconnect all case wires
(reset, power switch, LEDs) to the pins. They need not be connected to get
the system started.With a flat screwdriver short the two power switch pins
on the mb. I know it's trivial but you have you connected the 4 pin square
cpu plug onto the mb in addition to the 24 pin power connector?
Additionally, you're sure that the cpu hsf connector is on the correct
header for the fan? Many mbs have several headers and if the hsf is
connected to the wrong header the mb will not power on or shut off shortly.
Further, make sure that this mb, with it's onboard video is enabled, if it
has a jumper to be in a certain position. Finally, try resetting the bios,
by first disconnecting the power from the wall outlet and then moving the
jumper and replacing it.
Disconnect any hdds, or CD-ROMs from the system when doing this. If they
are the problem it will then show up later.
If none of this works the problem may be a DOA mb.It's realtively rare that
a processor is bad from the complaints I've read over the years, though
nothing should be discoounted.
--
Jan Alter bearpuf@verizon.net
or jalter@phila.k12.pa.us
Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On 
Linear Mode
