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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 12:49 AM
Matt
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Default Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

Is there a inexpensive ways to increase wifi range indoors ?


Thanks

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 04:52 AM
dold@XReXXAnyXi.usenet.us.com
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Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

Matt <Mathew@notmyaddress.com> wrote:
> Is there a inexpensive ways to increase wifi range indoors ?


http://www.freeantennas.com

--
---
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8,-122.5


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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 07:58 AM
Jeff Liebermann
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Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 03:52:50 +0000 (UTC),
dold@XReXXAnyXi.usenet.us.com wrote:

>Matt <Mathew@notmyaddress.com> wrote:
>> Is there a inexpensive ways to increase wifi range indoors ?

>
>http://www.freeantennas.com


That's probably the right way to improve the range.

However, I now have a way to make the Wi-Fi signal go around corners
and through floors. Waveguide, as 4" dia aluminum dryer vent hose:
| http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...entPage=family
| http://www.dryerbox.com/pages/flexhose/tip_aluminum.htm
The feed at one end is exactly like the traditional 1/4 wave Pringles
can antenna feed. More accurately, it's actually a 25 ft long
Pringles can antenna. I bought a piece today for another project
(inflatable HF antenna) and thought it might be useful as a coax cable
replacement (waveguide) for Wi-Fi. Preliminary tests in my palatial
office show that the output at the end of the 25ft hose, has about the
same RF level as the stock rubber ducky antenna at the same distance.
That means that there's very little attenuation in the waveguide. I'll
burn some time this weekend modeling this idea and see if I can find a
more efficient end feed (probably just a bigger horn).

--
Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
831.336.2558 voice
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann
jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us jeffl@cruzio.com


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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 12:58 PM
bjs555
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Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

>However, I now have a way to make the Wi-Fi signal go around corners
>and through floors. Waveguide, as 4" dia aluminum dryer vent hose:
>| http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...entPage=family
>| http://www.dryerbox.com/pages/flexhose/tip_aluminum.htm
>The feed at one end is exactly like the traditional 1/4 wave Pringles
>can antenna feed. More accurately, it's actually a 25 ft long
>Pringles can antenna. I bought a piece today for another project
>(inflatable HF antenna) and thought it might be useful as a coax cable
>replacement (waveguide) for Wi-Fi. Preliminary tests in my palatial
>office show that the output at the end of the 25ft hose, has about the
>same RF level as the stock rubber ducky antenna at the same distance.
>That means that there's very little attenuation in the waveguide. I'll
>burn some time this weekend modeling this idea and see if I can find a
>more efficient end feed (probably just a bigger horn).


Now that's something completely different. In the same spirit, I was
wondering if I painted two adjacent walls with conductive paint (isn't
there something like paint with metal particles in it?) and then put
regular paint over it to hide it, could I place a radio near the
intersection of the walls and create a huge corner reflector?

Cheers,
Bruce

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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 02:29 PM
bjs555
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Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

Re my possibly ridiculous post about a room sized reflector:

Jeff, have you ever modeled a corner reflector with sides of, say, 12
feet by 12 feet fed by a rubber duck type omni antenna? What program
do you use for modeling?

Thanks,
Bruce

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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 05:37 PM
Jeff Liebermann
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Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 07:58:17 -0400, bjs555 <aaa@bbb.com> wrote:

>Now that's something completely different. In the same spirit, I was
>wondering if I painted two adjacent walls with conductive paint (isn't
>there something like paint with metal particles in it?) and then put
>regular paint over it to hide it, could I place a radio near the
>intersection of the walls and create a huge corner reflector?


Corner reflectors don't scale very well beyond perhaps 1 or 2
wavelenths per side. The nice smooth front lobe pattern starts
looking like a "fan like" series of small lobes. You're much better
off with a parabola with large reflectors. Also, the gain doesn't
increase for large corner reflectors much over about 15dBi. Of
course, aiming your reflector would be a bit of a challenge.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 05:50 PM
Jeff Liebermann
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Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 09:29:59 -0400, bjs555 <aaa@bbb.com> wrote:

>Re my possibly ridiculous post about a room sized reflector:
>
>Jeff, have you ever modeled a corner reflector with sides of, say, 12
>feet by 12 feet fed by a rubber duck type omni antenna? What program
>do you use for modeling?


No, I haven't taken enough controlled substances to attempt that.
Actually, I'm too busy answering usenet news questions to do anything
useful these days.

For modeling, I use 4NEC2.
http://home.ict.nl/~arivoors/
which is free and is VERY good. It comes with a large collection of
samples.

I have some examples posted at:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/ant...uad/index.html
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/ant...400/index.html
I am still learning how to do proper modeling and am not an expert.

Also see:
http://www.eznec.com
The limited demo is free and quite useful.

I also use a variety of specialized deck generators and modeling
programs to deal with common constructs and geometries.

For a wide selection of other programs, see:
http://www.si-list.org/swindex2.html


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 06:39 PM
bjs555
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Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

>>Now that's something completely different. In the same spirit, I was
>>wondering if I painted two adjacent walls with conductive paint (isn't
>>there something like paint with metal particles in it?) and then put
>>regular paint over it to hide it, could I place a radio near the
>>intersection of the walls and create a huge corner reflector?

>
>Corner reflectors don't scale very well beyond perhaps 1 or 2
>wavelenths per side. The nice smooth front lobe pattern starts
>looking like a "fan like" series of small lobes. You're much better
>off with a parabola with large reflectors. Also, the gain doesn't
>increase for large corner reflectors much over about 15dBi. Of
>course, aiming your reflector would be a bit of a challenge.


Interesting. Too bad corner reflectors don't just keep getting better
with size. No, I'm not going to turn my room into a parabola :) Thanks
for the answer.

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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 06:45 PM
bjs555
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

>>Re my possibly ridiculous post about a room sized reflector:
>>
>>Jeff, have you ever modeled a corner reflector with sides of, say, 12
>>feet by 12 feet fed by a rubber duck type omni antenna? What program
>>do you use for modeling?

>
>No, I haven't taken enough controlled substances to attempt that.
>Actually, I'm too busy answering usenet news questions to do anything
>useful these days.


Your usenet answers should be in a book. I know I'd sure like
something like that in my library.

>For modeling, I use 4NEC2.
> http://home.ict.nl/~arivoors/
>which is free and is VERY good. It comes with a large collection of
>samples.
>
>I have some examples posted at:
> http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/ant...uad/index.html
> http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/ant...400/index.html
>I am still learning how to do proper modeling and am not an expert.
>
>Also see:
> http://www.eznec.com
>The limited demo is free and quite useful.
>
>I also use a variety of specialized deck generators and modeling
>programs to deal with common constructs and geometries.
>
>For a wide selection of other programs, see:
> http://www.si-list.org/swindex2.html


Great! Thanks!

Bruce

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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2005, 01:10 AM
Martin²
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Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

I get a very good results from putting a 8 x 4" card covered in silver foil,
bent in half to 60 deg just standing close behind the stand of my D-Link
G122 USB adapter or Orinoco USB adapter.
Regards,
Martin



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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2005, 01:17 AM
Moe Trin
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Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

In the Usenet newsgroup alt.internet.wireless, in article
<a11hl1p7lt7oum1q15m5am78ikpr1q4ifa@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

>However, I now have a way to make the Wi-Fi signal go around corners
>and through floors. Waveguide, as 4" dia aluminum dryer vent hose:


Cough, cough, cough!!!

Geez, Jeff - warn people when you're going to pull a stunt like that.

>The feed at one end is exactly like the traditional 1/4 wave Pringles
>can antenna feed.


A TE11 mode is about the best, and yes this does work. The MAJOR
problem is that the hose is very easy to damage, and the VSWR goes
out of sight. Traditionally, use of circular waveguide is very
limited for two other reasons. First is the lack of polarization
stability. You may put a wave in "up and down' motion at one end,
but it's anyone's guess what's going to come out the other end.
The second problem is mode skiping, as there is little to prevent
higher order modes. The main use I've seen for circular waveguide
is rotary joints - invariably using the TM11 mode (the equivalent
of a probe in the exact center of the end cap). The transition
between non-circular waveguide and circular is usually a "hole"
between the sidewall of the non-circular guide, and the end of
the circular guide.

>That means that there's very little attenuation in the waveguide.


Extremely crude guess - should be under 2.5 dB/hundred feet. Copper
or silver plate would reduce the losses significantly, possibly
below 1.0 dB/C'.

>I'll burn some time this weekend modeling this idea and see if I can
>find a more efficient end feed (probably just a bigger horn).


What blend of aluminum is this? There's a substantial difference in
the conductivity between 1100 (nominal 60% compared to .999 Ag) and
6061 (nominal 40% compared to .999 Ag). That conductivity has a
large effect on attenuation, as suggested above.

Carrying this though a little further - 4" galvanized steel dryer vent
is going to be powdered dog poop compared to solid aluminum of any
kind. The only advantage is that it would be stronger, and somewhat
less liable to mechanical damage.

Old guy

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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2005, 03:02 AM
Jeff Liebermann
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 19:17:50 -0500, ibuprofin@painkiller.example.tld
(Moe Trin) wrote:

>In the Usenet newsgroup alt.internet.wireless, in article
><a11hl1p7lt7oum1q15m5am78ikpr1q4ifa@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
>>However, I now have a way to make the Wi-Fi signal go around corners
>>and through floors. Waveguide, as 4" dia aluminum dryer vent hose:


>Cough, cough, cough!!!
>Geez, Jeff - warn people when you're going to pull a stunt like that.


Well, ok.

Warning. The following wonderful and clever idea may prove
to be no better than useless when actually installed and tested.
The author offers no guarantees of functionality or performance
and will not be responsible for any subsequent or consequential
damages to one's finances or sanity.

Happy?

>>The feed at one end is exactly like the traditional 1/4 wave Pringles
>>can antenna feed.


>A TE11 mode is about the best, and yes this does work.


Yep. I've done a bit of WG plumbing with WR-90 at X-band in the
distant past. Actually, I think I still have some of that stuff
buried somewhere. I even have some 2K25 klystrons. Cleaning the
garbage out of the choke joints seemed to fix most of the loss
problems.

>The MAJOR
>problem is that the hose is very easy to damage, and the VSWR goes
>out of sight.


Actually, the stuff I bought is rather solid construction. It's
fairly thick and stiff. Seems quite durable. I figure it can be used
between floors, around corners, in overhead ceilings, and other places
where it's unlikely to trampled or punctured.

>Traditionally, use of circular waveguide is very
>limited for two other reasons. First is the lack of polarization
>stability. You may put a wave in "up and down' motion at one end,
>but it's anyone's guess what's going to come out the other end.
>The second problem is mode skiping, as there is little to prevent
>higher order modes. The main use I've seen for circular waveguide
>is rotary joints - invariably using the TM11 mode (the equivalent
>of a probe in the exact center of the end cap). The transition
>between non-circular waveguide and circular is usually a "hole"
>between the sidewall of the non-circular guide, and the end of
>the circular guide.


Hmmm.... Well, this is a bit different because one end of the WG is
directly connected to a polarization insensitive antenna. I was
thinking of just a big cone forming a horn antenna. It should accept
or belch any polarization.

The feed end is a problem. The 1/4 wave probe will probably screw up
badly as the polarization varies. I don't think it's all that
important because the polarization from the client radios isn't all
that well controlled. They come from all directions and reflections.
If it's a problem, I was thinking of a full wave loop antenna mounted
perpendicular to the base about .75 wavelengths above the base. If
that doesn't play, I have a few ceramic backed patch antennas that
should easily fit and are somewhat circularly polarized. If
polarization sensitivity really becomes an issue, I'll install two
cross polarized 1/4 wave probes and feed them to each of the two
access point diversity antennas.

>>That means that there's very little attenuation in the waveguide.


>Extremely crude guess - should be under 2.5 dB/hundred feet. Copper
>or silver plate would reduce the losses significantly, possibly
>below 1.0 dB/C'.


There was a web site showing a Wi-Fi waveguide using galvanized
downspout. If that worked, this should be MUCH better.

Methinks for this exercise, I'll abandon 40 years of RF experience and
resort to just building it and see what happens. My neighborhood
wireless LAN as a dead spot created by a very large tree near the
cental access point antenna. I was going to add a 2nd access point
but it would be more interesting to see if the flex waveguide can
deliver the signal around the tree.

>>I'll burn some time this weekend modeling this idea and see if I can
>>find a more efficient end feed (probably just a bigger horn).


>What blend of aluminum is this?


I have no idea. Since it's fairly flexible, it's probable close to
dead soft (pure) aluminum. I'll see if I can get some details from
the manufacturers.

>There's a substantial difference in
>the conductivity between 1100 (nominal 60% compared to .999 Ag) and
>6061 (nominal 40% compared to .999 Ag). That conductivity has a
>large effect on attenuation, as suggested above.


I didn't know that. That's also assuming that it's not plated,
anodized, or alodined. I'm not sure that this stuff has on the
surface to keep the high humidity dryer exhaust from etching the
aluminium in powder.

>Carrying this though a little further - 4" galvanized steel dryer vent
>is going to be powdered dog poop compared to solid aluminum of any
>kind. The only advantage is that it would be stronger, and somewhat
>less liable to mechanical damage.


I won't damage it. I promise.

Somewhere in cyberland is a long rant I wrote on why the lousy surface
conductivity of the average coffee can does not necessarily make a
suitable microwave antenna. I also wrote about illuminating the HVAC
ducting with wi-fi in a hospital for improving the coverage. That
worked but proved unpopular with the administration.

However, even if the results for this waveguide are less than optimum,
it does have potential for ducting RF between floors, around corners,
and in awkward locations.

--
Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
831.336.2558 voice
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann
jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us jeffl@cruzio.com


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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2005, 02:49 AM
Moe Trin
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Any inexpensive ways to increase range indoors ?

In the Usenet newsgroup alt.internet.wireless, in article
<kl4jl19b9gakb94ej6ka6sbtf4ku4medud@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

>(Moe Trin) wrote:


>>Geez, Jeff - warn people when you're going to pull a stunt like that.

>
>Well, ok.
>
> Warning. The following wonderful and clever idea may prove
> to be no better than useless when actually installed and tested.
> The author offers no guarantees of functionality or performance
> and will not be responsible for any subsequent or consequential
> damages to one's finances or sanity.


Always read the instructions on the package. May contain traces of nut.

>Happy?


Actually, I was thinking about warning people who are about to read one
of those gems. Coke/Coffee/Beer does absolutely nothing good to keyboards
and monitors.

>Yep. I've done a bit of WG plumbing with WR-90 at X-band in the
>distant past. Actually, I think I still have some of that stuff
>buried somewhere. I even have some 2K25 klystrons.


Yeah, but do you have the weird modified octal socket as well?

>Cleaning the garbage out of the choke joints seemed to fix most of
>the loss problems


How did the garbage get into the waveguide so that it could get into the
choke joints in the first place? ;-)

>Actually, the stuff I bought is rather solid construction. It's
>fairly thick and stiff. Seems quite durable. I figure it can be used
>between floors, around corners, in overhead ceilings, and other places
>where it's unlikely to trampled or punctured.


Watch the bend radius - you don't want to distort the cross section any
more than possible. The only sample I have here is quite thin - wall
thickness is about 0.007 inch.

>Hmmm.... Well, this is a bit different because one end of the WG is
>directly connected to a polarization insensitive antenna. I was
>thinking of just a big cone forming a horn antenna. It should accept
>or belch any polarization.


True - but the other end of the link needs to have a "similar" polarity,
or you wind up loosing 20*log of the cosine of the difference in polari-
zation. Flaring the end to a shallow cone with the mouth at least several
tens of wavelengths across would work, but...

>The feed end is a problem. The 1/4 wave probe will probably screw up
>badly as the polarization varies. I don't think it's all that
>important because the polarization from the client radios isn't all
>that well controlled.


The polarization differs at the mouth of the antenna, or at the coax feed
doesn't change the fact that you're not going to be transferring all the
signal between "the ether" and the coax.

>They come from all directions and reflections. If it's a problem, I was
>thinking of a full wave loop antenna mounted perpendicular to the base
>about .75 wavelengths above the base. If that doesn't play, I have a
>few ceramic backed patch antennas that should easily fit and are somewhat
>circularly polarized.


Circular is a solution - except that to _any_ linear wave, you loose 3
dB. Creating circular polarization in a waveguide would be a nightmare.
A better solution is to put two polarization grids a quarter wave apart
at the mouth of the horn. BTW, "somewhat circular" is called elliptic,
and it's not at all uncommon.

>If polarization sensitivity really becomes an issue, I'll install two
>cross polarized 1/4 wave probes and feed them to each of the two
>access point diversity antennas.


Meaning using one H and one V? That's a much better solution, though
there might be VSWR problems. Probably not enough to hurt, but not up to
commercial standard.

>There was a web site showing a Wi-Fi waveguide using galvanized
>downspout. If that worked, this should be MUCH better.


Well, compared to a similar length of RG58, yeah, but galvanized
downspout has got to have more loss than quality coax.

>Methinks for this exercise, I'll abandon 40 years of RF experience and
>resort to just building it and see what happens.


Nothing wrong with that. If the transmitter can tolerate a 2:1 or even
3:1 VSWR, this shouldn't harm anything.

>I have no idea. Since it's fairly flexible, it's probable close to
>dead soft (pure) aluminum. I'll see if I can get some details from
>the manufacturers.


That would be what I'd expect. 1100 is a common type, though there is
no reason anyone _must_ use Aluminum Association designations.

>I didn't know that. That's also assuming that it's not plated,
>anodized, or alodined. I'm not sure that this stuff has on the
>surface to keep the high humidity dryer exhaust from etching the
>aluminium in powder.


"Pure" aluminum won't be pure very long. the exterior surface oxidizes
fairly quickly, and that oxide is what protects the metal. For this
type of service, pure aluminum has an advantage over alloys because
any cut or nick is "self healing" (a new coat of oxide forms quickly
to protect the interior). Alloys tend to pit when damaged - you see
this on outdoor TV antennas and the like, which are often an alloy
with magnesium and silicon (the 6xxx series). "Alodine" (I think
that's spelled wrong, but what-ever) is just a paint job, and is the
absolute bottom of the line for protection..

You might want to see if you can grab a copy of Mil-HDBK-216 which has
all you ever wanted to know about transmission lines (including waveguide).
The facts on aluminum are MIL-HDBK-694.

>Somewhere in cyberland is a long rant I wrote on why the lousy surface
>conductivity of the average coffee can does not necessarily make a
>suitable microwave antenna.


Waveguide itself is low loss compared to cable - but the loss is frequency
dependent and conductivity dependent. This is why the smaller waveguides
are often silver, or at least silver plated inside. At the other end, I
have had projects that used 6061 Al waveguide (up to C-band), both in
solid and convoluted flexible. On the third hand, if we needed a longer
run, it was brass or Oxygen Free Copper, possibly silver plated over
a rhodium flash.

>I also wrote about illuminating the HVAC ducting with wi-fi in a hospital
>for improving the coverage. That worked but proved unpopular with the
>administration.


Party poopers.

>However, even if the results for this waveguide are less than optimum,
>it does have potential for ducting RF between floors, around corners,
>and in awkward locations.


But be aware that polarization will be important based on that 20*Log
Cosine function, and that any damage can have substantial effects. We
used to tune the reflections out of waveguide by pressing gently on
the wide sidewall of a guide while monitoring the VSWR, and moving
along the guide. When you find the spot where pressing gives the
greatest reduction in reflections, you took a ball bearing (of
appropriate size) and a set of channel locks, and put a permanent
dimple in the guide. It was fairly frequency sensitive, but that's
how we got return loss below -30 dB (1.07 or so).

If you could find it, what would be better is "rectangular" aluminum
drain pipe (2 x 4 inch inside is about ideal for 2.45 GHz). The loss
should likely be under 1.5 dB/hundred feet. The advantage is that
being rectangular, you put the feed in the wide wall, and don't have
to worry about what it tries to do when the "guide" is bent around a
corner. The disadvantage is that it won't make sharp bends.

Old guy

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