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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2006, 05:55 AM
Neil H.
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Posts: n/a
Default "Link quality"? (newbie question)

I've just set up my first Wi-Fi network, or rather Wi-Fi to an 802.11g
router for my cable Internet connection. The D-Link DWL-G120 USB device I'm
using on this computer comes with a Wireless Utility that shows signal
strength and link quality. I don't really understand what "link quality"
means, and their very brief explanation isn't much help. Neither have I been
able to find anything useful on Google, though I suppose there must be
plenty of good information on the Internet somewhere.

Can someone explain link quality to me, or point me in the direction of that
information?

Neil



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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2006, 07:08 AM
Jeff Liebermann
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)

"Neil H." <th@s.unlisted> hath wroth:

>I've just set up my first Wi-Fi network, or rather Wi-Fi to an 802.11g
>router for my cable Internet connection. The D-Link DWL-G120 USB device I'm
>using on this computer comes with a Wireless Utility that shows signal
>strength and link quality. I don't really understand what "link quality"
>means, and their very brief explanation isn't much help. Neither have I been
>able to find anything useful on Google, though I suppose there must be
>plenty of good information on the Internet somewhere.
>
>Can someone explain link quality to me, or point me in the direction of that
>information?


Sure. Link quality is the Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR). The card
measures the signal strength and the noise level. It calculates:
SNR = 10 * log [(S + N) / N]
or some similar calculation. Actually it's a bit more complex in that
the signal and noise levels are derived from the RSSI (received signal
strength indicator) which is a value from 0 to 255. The manufactory
works out a table of RSSI to signal level in -dBm (decibels relative
to 1 milliwatt into 50 ohms). In this case, the SNR is roughly the
difference between the signal level and the noise level in -dBm.

Most of the noise that a receive sees is from other 2.4GHz
transmitters including other Wi-Fi networks. It is possible to have a
rather strong signal, but an unuseable connection because of a high
noise level. This is a poor SNR.

The receiver detector and data decoder require a minimum SNR in order
to maintain a reasonable BER (bit error rate). The access point
adjusts the speed in order to maintain a high SNR. The faster the
connection speed, the higher the required SNR.
For example, the minumum SNR in order to maintain a 10^5 BER is:
Speed SNR(dB)
11 6.99
5.5 5.98
2 1.59
1 -2.92
54 24.6
48 24.1
36 18.8
24 17.0
18 10.8
12 9.0
9 7.8
6 6.0

If you look at the 1Mbits/sec line, it really does mean that at
1Mbit/sec, you can theoretically have twice as much noise power as
signal, and still decode the data.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2006, 02:10 PM
Neil H.
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)


"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us> wrote in message
news:7imtk292fon5qsre3ffiittf16obgtdv5r@4ax.com...
> "Neil H." <th@s.unlisted> hath wroth:
>
> >I've just set up my first Wi-Fi network, or rather Wi-Fi to an 802.11g
> >router for my cable Internet connection. The D-Link DWL-G120 USB device

I'm
> >using on this computer comes with a Wireless Utility that shows signal
> >strength and link quality. I don't really understand what "link quality"
> >means, and their very brief explanation isn't much help. Neither have I

been
> >able to find anything useful on Google, though I suppose there must be
> >plenty of good information on the Internet somewhere.
> >
> >Can someone explain link quality to me, or point me in the direction of

that
> >information?

>
> Sure. Link quality is the Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR). The card
> measures the signal strength and the noise level. It calculates:
> SNR = 10 * log [(S + N) / N]
> or some similar calculation. Actually it's a bit more complex in that
> the signal and noise levels are derived from the RSSI (received signal
> strength indicator) which is a value from 0 to 255. The manufactory
> works out a table of RSSI to signal level in -dBm (decibels relative
> to 1 milliwatt into 50 ohms). In this case, the SNR is roughly the
> difference between the signal level and the noise level in -dBm.
>
> Most of the noise that a receive sees is from other 2.4GHz
> transmitters including other Wi-Fi networks. It is possible to have a
> rather strong signal, but an unuseable connection because of a high
> noise level. This is a poor SNR.
>
> The receiver detector and data decoder require a minimum SNR in order
> to maintain a reasonable BER (bit error rate). The access point
> adjusts the speed in order to maintain a high SNR. The faster the
> connection speed, the higher the required SNR.
> For example, the minumum SNR in order to maintain a 10^5 BER is:
> Speed SNR(dB)
> 11 6.99
> 5.5 5.98
> 2 1.59
> 1 -2.92
> 54 24.6
> 48 24.1
> 36 18.8
> 24 17.0
> 18 10.8
> 12 9.0
> 9 7.8
> 6 6.0
>
> If you look at the 1Mbits/sec line, it really does mean that at
> 1Mbit/sec, you can theoretically have twice as much noise power as
> signal, and still decode the data.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


Jeff, thanks a million. You've also helped me understand the dBm numbers
that show in the Available Network section of this Wireless Utility.

I am picking up (at this moment) four other networks besides my own. Three
have an SSID of "2WIRE(something)" so I suppose "2WIRE" is a hardware name,
since my default SSID when I set it up was "dlink." The fourth is a person's
name and "house," and looking up that name on Google to get the address in
my town, then checking the online map, I see that the house in question is a
mile or so away from me. That seems a long way, as I understood the usual
range for Wi-Fi was a few hundred feet. I suppose that implies he's using
some sort of range extender and/or extra antenna?

Also, I notice he's using Channel 1. I'm still using the default Channel 6,
as are the other three networks I'm getting a signal from. Are there pros or
cons to switching to a different channel?

Thanks again,

Neil



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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2006, 04:17 PM
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)

"Neil H." <th@s.unlisted> hath wroth:

>I am picking up (at this moment) four other networks besides my own. Three
>have an SSID of "2WIRE(something)" so I suppose "2WIRE" is a hardware name,


2wire is the name of the manufacturer:
http://www.2wire.com
These are mostly preconfigured wireless routers distributed by various
DSL ISP's as their "home networking" packages. They are delivered
preconfigured with the SSID of 2wireXXX where XXX are the last few
digits of the MAC address.

>since my default SSID when I set it up was "dlink."


You might want to change that.

>The fourth is a person's
>name and "house," and looking up that name on Google to get the address in
>my town, then checking the online map, I see that the house in question is a
>mile or so away from me. That seems a long way, as I understood the usual
>range for Wi-Fi was a few hundred feet. I suppose that implies he's using
>some sort of range extender and/or extra antenna?


Possibly. Netstumbler does not require many packets in order to
identify a wireless access point. For example, I can see access
points on the hillsides across the valley perhaps 3-5 miles away.
However, when I try to connect to these wireless routers, the
connection fails, usually because of interference or low signal
strength. The 300ft maximum outdoor range often quoted in the
literature is for a "typical" installation, using the stock antennas,
a typical laptop, no interference, line of sight, and no
complications. It is often less. A mile is not unusual if you have a
decent antenna on your sniffer, or the access point has a high gain
antenna, power amplifier, perfectly clear line of sight, or plenty of
altitude.

>Also, I notice he's using Channel 1. I'm still using the default Channel 6,
>as are the other three networks I'm getting a signal from. Are there pros or
>cons to switching to a different channel?


Yes. The Wi-Fi signal is about 22MHz wide. That's a bit more than 4
channels worth of occupied bandwidth. Therefore, the only
non-overlapping channels available are 1, 6, and 11. If you select a
channel in between, you get to hear the interference from TWO of these
non-overlapping channels.

I recently did some war walking with my PDA in the downtown Santa Cruz
CA area. Almost everything I heard was on either Ch 6 and Ch 11.
Nobody was on Ch 1. I thought my PDA was broken, but subsequent
testing with my laptop demonstrated that Ch 1 was unoccupied. I
should have known better. When I attempted to use Ch 1, I discovered
why everyone else had abandoned it. There was a VERY strong FM signal
on Ch 1 in the area. I eventually tracked it down to some fool
attaching an illegal power amplifier to their 2.4Ghz cordless phone
and using it like a cell phone in the downtown area. They're
supposidly moving out shortly, so I haven't persued the problem. The
moral is that just because a sniffer says the channel is unoccupied,
doesn't mean that it's useable.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2006, 05:10 PM
Larry Finger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> I recently did some war walking with my PDA in the downtown Santa Cruz
> CA area. Almost everything I heard was on either Ch 6 and Ch 11.
> Nobody was on Ch 1. I thought my PDA was broken, but subsequent
> testing with my laptop demonstrated that Ch 1 was unoccupied. I
> should have known better. When I attempted to use Ch 1, I discovered
> why everyone else had abandoned it. There was a VERY strong FM signal
> on Ch 1 in the area. I eventually tracked it down to some fool
> attaching an illegal power amplifier to their 2.4Ghz cordless phone
> and using it like a cell phone in the downtown area. They're
> supposidly moving out shortly, so I haven't persued the problem. The
> moral is that just because a sniffer says the channel is unoccupied,
> doesn't mean that it's useable.


How did you identify the source of the interference? In my neighborhood, there are APs on channels 6
and 11; therefore, I tried channel 1. I couldn't make a stable connection due to some source of
interference. Channel 2 was better, but only when I tried 3 did I get stability. Kismet doesn't find
anything on channel 1.

Larry

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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2006, 05:50 PM
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)

Larry Finger <Larry.Finger@lwfinger.net> hath wroth:

>How did you identify the source of the interference?


I have three spectrum analyzers available. I used the first two:

1. Wi-Spy:
http://www.metageek.net

2. A modified MMDF downconverter to a borrowed Tek something spectrum
analyzer. The analyzer only goes up to 1GHz. The MMDF downconverter
mixes the 2.4GHz Wi-Fi band down to about 200MHz. I was doing a site
survey on a local rooftop when the cordless phone signal magically
appeared and almost overloaded the receiver. The hotel where it was
located was almost directly across the mall from where I was working.
I had some trouble convincing the desk clerk to let me cruise the
hallways. I found the floor and probable room with Wi-Spy. The
couple knew exactly what they were doing but were unaware that it was
causing Wi-Fi interference. They agreed to limit its use until they
move out at the end of Nov.

3. A big, heavy, ugly, but cheap HP141 mainframe with various
spectrum analyzer plugins. I use this at my house for bench testing
and when I can't borrow something lighter.

>In my neighborhood, there are APs on channels 6
>and 11; therefore, I tried channel 1. I couldn't make a stable connection due to some source of
>interference. Channel 2 was better, but only when I tried 3 did I get stability. Kismet doesn't find
>anything on channel 1.


Kismet will only find 802.11 signals. For Non-802.11 transmitters,
you need a spectrum analyzer. See the FAQ:
http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi#Interference
for a shopping list of interference sources. Note that most cordless
phones congregate near the bottom of the 2.4GHz band. The algorithm
seems to be start at the low end and work their way up until they find
a useable channel. I'm not sure about this but that's how several
2.4GHz phones I tried seem to work. Try to get the timing of the
interference. I can usually make a good guess by the usage pattern
and hours of operation.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2006, 09:30 PM
Neil H.
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)


"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us> wrote in message
news:d1nuk2h1n5q24f71mh1taf9msr8jf3hit4@4ax.com...
> "Neil H." <th@s.unlisted> hath wroth:
>
> >I am picking up (at this moment) four other networks besides my own.

Three
> >have an SSID of "2WIRE(something)" so I suppose "2WIRE" is a hardware

name,
>
> 2wire is the name of the manufacturer:
> http://www.2wire.com
> These are mostly preconfigured wireless routers distributed by various
> DSL ISP's as their "home networking" packages. They are delivered
> preconfigured with the SSID of 2wireXXX where XXX are the last few
> digits of the MAC address.
>
> >since my default SSID when I set it up was "dlink."

>
> You might want to change that.


Yep, I did that the first day.


>
> >The fourth is a person's
> >name and "house," and looking up that name on Google to get the address

in
> >my town, then checking the online map, I see that the house in question

is a
> >mile or so away from me. That seems a long way, as I understood the usual
> >range for Wi-Fi was a few hundred feet. I suppose that implies he's using
> >some sort of range extender and/or extra antenna?

>
> Possibly. Netstumbler does not require many packets in order to
> identify a wireless access point. For example, I can see access
> points on the hillsides across the valley perhaps 3-5 miles away.
> However, when I try to connect to these wireless routers, the
> connection fails, usually because of interference or low signal
> strength. The 300ft maximum outdoor range often quoted in the
> literature is for a "typical" installation, using the stock antennas,
> a typical laptop, no interference, line of sight, and no
> complications. It is often less. A mile is not unusual if you have a
> decent antenna on your sniffer, or the access point has a high gain
> antenna, power amplifier, perfectly clear line of sight, or plenty of
> altitude.


I'm not sure what you mean by "sniffer." My antenna at this computer is just
a small rectangular frame on the USB device -- I presume it's a loop
antenna. I know I don't have a perfectly clear line of sight. I'm in an
apartment house with a steel frame, and there are at the least a lot of
trees between me and that address. It is only slightly hilly around here.


>
> >Also, I notice he's using Channel 1. I'm still using the default Channel

6,
> >as are the other three networks I'm getting a signal from. Are there pros

or
> >cons to switching to a different channel?

>
> Yes. The Wi-Fi signal is about 22MHz wide. That's a bit more than 4
> channels worth of occupied bandwidth. Therefore, the only
> non-overlapping channels available are 1, 6, and 11. If you select a
> channel in between, you get to hear the interference from TWO of these
> non-overlapping channels.


Ah, I see.

The shown signal strength from my own router/AP in the next room is -30 dBm.
How does that compare with the usual sort of network inside a house? The
utility generally shows my link quality at 100%, and 54 Mbps. I notice that
when I move the antenna around, the link quality drops temporarily, then
recovers and returns to 100%. Occasionally the Tx rate drops to 24 Mbps
briefly -- I presume that makes no difference since I'm only using this to
connect to my cable modem, which has less throughput than that anyway,
right?

The four 2WIRExxx signals I'm picking up right now are -70, -86, -78
and -90. What I'm getting from the house a mile away is -94. I understand dB
is on some sort of logarithmic scale, so those numbers aren't really as
close to my own AP as they look, correct? What would be a reasonable minimum
signal strength for a reliable link? And do those numbers suggest that at
*their* end they're getting about the same signal strength from me, or isn't
that necessarily so?

I'm not really terribly concerned about being hacked, but I'm not carefree
about it either. I do have WEP on, of course.

Neil



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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2006, 10:18 PM
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)

On Mon, 6 Nov 2006 16:30:23 -0500, "Neil H." <th@s.unlisted> wrote:

>I'm not sure what you mean by "sniffer."


Anything that can be used to located access points, clients,
interference, noise sources, transmitters, etc. It's a generic term I
borrowed from ham radio transmitter hunting.

>My antenna at this computer is just
>a small rectangular frame on the USB device -- I presume it's a loop
>antenna.


Nope. Most USB devices have a 1/4 wave meandering line monopole on a
ceramic substrate. The ceramic has a high dielectric constant which
drastically shorten the required length (and size). There are
limitations to what can be done with a corner reflector, but they work
well enough for general purpose transmitter hunting. I kinda prefer
my salad bowl dish idea:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas...ish/index.html
However, it's not a perfect parabola and also tends to attract too
much attention from the authorities. For real site surveys, I use a
30ft telescoping fiberglass window washing pole with a 15dBi dish and
an MMDS downconverter on top.

>I know I don't have a perfectly clear line of sight. I'm in an
>apartment house with a steel frame, and there are at the least a lot of
>trees between me and that address. It is only slightly hilly around here.


The real problem with not having line of sight is reliability. You
can usually find a spot that works. The problem is that it will not
remain working as objects along the line of sight move around. There's
also the problems of Fresnel Zone diffraction and reflections off the
ground and objects.

>The shown signal strength from my own router/AP in the next room is -30 dBm.
>How does that compare with the usual sort of network inside a house? The
>utility generally shows my link quality at 100%, and 54 Mbps.


-30dBm is a rather strong signal for wireless. That should work as
long as you don't have a bunch of reflections.

>I notice that
>when I move the antenna around, the link quality drops temporarily, then
>recovers and returns to 100%. Occasionally the Tx rate drops to 24 Mbps
>briefly -- I presume that makes no difference since I'm only using this to
>connect to my cable modem, which has less throughput than that anyway,
>right?


The drop in link quality was cause by multipath or reflections. There
will be places in the room where the incident (direct) signal cancels
the reflected signal, thus reducing the SNR. There's also the problem
with inter symbol interference, where the reflected signal arrives
somewhat after the incident signal and clobbers the next arriving
packet. 802.11g has a rather large inter-symbol delay to take care of
this very real problem, but it's not large enough to handle all
possible reflections.

>The four 2WIRExxx signals I'm picking up right now are -70, -86, -78
>and -90. What I'm getting from the house a mile away is -94. I understand dB
>is on some sort of logarithmic scale, so those numbers aren't really as
>close to my own AP as they look, correct? What would be a reasonable minimum
>signal strength for a reliable link? And do those numbers suggest that at
>*their* end they're getting about the same signal strength from me, or isn't
>that necessarily so?


That's going to be a problem as there is no single answer. The signal
levels in -dBm you mention have different effects at different speeds.
The following chart is the receiver sensitivity at various speeds.
| http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi...ance_and_Speed
This is from a Dlink DI-624.
Mbps Type PER dBm
54 OFDM 10% -68
48 OFDM 10% -68
36 OFDM 10% -75
24 OFDM 10% -79
18 OFDM 10% -82
12 OFDM 10% -84
11 CCK 8% -82
9 OFDM 10% -87
6 OFDM 10% -88
5.5 CCK 8% -85
2 QPSK 8% -86
1 BPSK 8% -89

So, if you have a -70dBm signal, you could theoretically no faster
than 36Mbits/sec (for a thruput of about half that or 18Mbits/sec).
Unfortunately, this is the *BEST* case approximation. Add a bit of
interference, some noise, a few reflections, and some marginal
hardware, and you'll probably end up at 24 or 18Mbits/sec. It's also
not very useful running at a PER of 10% as you will see substantial
retransmissions. However, we'll pretend that everything is perfect so
I won't complicate the estimates. Your -94dBm signal level will not
even work at 1Mbit/sec. I suggest you read the following sections on
fade margin and range/speed.
| http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi#Link_Calculations
| http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi...ance_and_Speed
It may not make much sense at this point, but is as simple as I can
make it and still include the calculations.

Also, it might be useful to know that a 6dB increase in power or
sensitivity will yield a doubling in range. 12dB is 4 times, 18dB 8
times. If you look at the above table, the difference in dB between
54Mbits/sec and 1Mbit/sec is 21dB. That means you can go 16 times as
far at 1Mbit/sec than at 54Mbits/sec. You can also use this to
predict your range. If you can go 100ft at 1Mbit/sec, you'll only be
able to go 6.3ft at 54Mbits/sec.

As for how fast you need to go to run your cable modem, I would need
to know your cable modem speed. I'll assume 6Mbit/sec. You'll need
at least a 12Mbit/sec wireless connection to equal this. However, you
will have reflections, interference, and the attendent
retransmissions, so something somewhat faster would be the required
minimum speed. Methinks 18Mbits/sec would be a safe minimum. Looking
at the table, your recevie signal level will need to be over -82dBm or
you will be slower than your cable modem.

>I'm not really terribly concerned about being hacked, but I'm not carefree
>about it either. I do have WEP on, of course.


Nobody worries about security (and backups) until AFTER they have been
hacked or had their computer trashed.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558 jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2006, 10:48 PM
Neil H.
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)


"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us> wrote in message
news:q9bvk2hgbs7rbb2advtkiinjnq113bcl4s@4ax.com...

<much interesting and useful stuff omitted>

Jeff, thanks a million again for all your help and information. I've learned
more in a few minutes from your posts than in many times longer reading
Que's Absolute Beginner's Guide to Wi-Fi. I'm saving all of it to a file.

I'll be exploring all the links you've supplied.

Neil



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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2006, 03:53 AM
miso@sushi.com
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)


Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> Larry Finger <Larry.Finger@lwfinger.net> hath wroth:
>
> >How did you identify the source of the interference?

>
> I have three spectrum analyzers available. I used the first two:
>
> 1. Wi-Spy:
> http://www.metageek.net
>
> 2. A modified MMDF downconverter to a borrowed Tek something spectrum
> analyzer. The analyzer only goes up to 1GHz. The MMDF downconverter
> mixes the 2.4GHz Wi-Fi band down to about 200MHz. I was doing a site
> survey on a local rooftop when the cordless phone signal magically
> appeared and almost overloaded the receiver. The hotel where it was
> located was almost directly across the mall from where I was working.
> I had some trouble convincing the desk clerk to let me cruise the
> hallways. I found the floor and probable room with Wi-Spy. The
> couple knew exactly what they were doing but were unaware that it was
> causing Wi-Fi interference. They agreed to limit its use until they
> move out at the end of Nov.


Doing some googling, I came across MMDS. Is that what you meant? Being
a pack rat, I have one of these from a now out of business service,
plus a coffee can converter I built myself.

>
> 3. A big, heavy, ugly, but cheap HP141 mainframe with various
> spectrum analyzer plugins. I use this at my house for bench testing
> and when I can't borrow something lighter.
>
> >In my neighborhood, there are APs on channels 6
> >and 11; therefore, I tried channel 1. I couldn't make a stable connection due to some source of
> >interference. Channel 2 was better, but only when I tried 3 did I get stability. Kismet doesn't find
> >anything on channel 1.

>
> Kismet will only find 802.11 signals. For Non-802.11 transmitters,
> you need a spectrum analyzer. See the FAQ:
> http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi#Interference
> for a shopping list of interference sources. Note that most cordless
> phones congregate near the bottom of the 2.4GHz band. The algorithm
> seems to be start at the low end and work their way up until they find
> a useable channel. I'm not sure about this but that's how several
> 2.4GHz phones I tried seem to work. Try to get the timing of the
> interference. I can usually make a good guess by the usage pattern
> and hours of operation.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558



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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2006, 04:24 AM
Jeff Liebermann
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Default Re: "Link quality"? (newbie question)

On 9 Nov 2006 19:53:09 -0800, miso@sushi.com wrote:

>Doing some googling, I came across MMDS. Is that what you meant? Being
>a pack rat, I have one of these from a now out of business service,
>plus a coffee can converter I built myself.


Yes, it's MMDS, not MMDF. MMDF is "Multichannel Memorandum
Distribution Facility" which I use for a mailer on my antique SCO Unix
box. Sorry about the confusion.

Run some bench tests on the MMDS downconverter in the 2400-2483.5MHz
region. Some of them (i.e. Pacific Microwave) have notch filters in
this region to help eliminate microwave oven and other sources of
interference.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558 jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

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