On Jun 11, 7:02 pm, RobbieWinter <RobbieWinter.2s1...@no-
mx.wirelessforums.org> wrote:
> Hey,
>
> Last year I bought an RV and my wife an I have been travling across the
> nation since. We have a laptop and found that we had trouble picking up
> the wireless networks offered by the RV parks because of low signal
> strength. I looked for product to help increase the range of my laptop
> and came up with a nifty solution. I used a USB wireless adapter with a
> removeable antenna, and combined it with a strong outdoor antenna that I
> mounted on the roof of my RV. The products I used were an 'HWUG1'
> (http://www.gohawking.com/store/produ...roducts_id=237) and
> an 'HAO9SIP'
> (http://www.gohawking.com/store/produ...roducts_id=208) from
> Hawking Technologies. I have been very happy with this configuration
> for about a month now and just wanted to share with my fellow RV'ers.
>
> Rob
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> View this thread:http://www.wirelessforums.org/showth...lessforums.org
I'm glad your solution works in your RV. I too am an RVer but I want a
wireless solution so I can move about inside and outside my rig.
Any thoughts?
BTW, does the documentation for the Hawking adapter give any hint that
it will work with USB 1.1? Everything I could find says 2.0 only.
Joe Bedford <joebedford@yahoo.com> wrote:
> BTW, does the documentation for the Hawking adapter give any hint that
> it will work with USB 1.1? Everything I could find says 2.0 only.
Anything that works on USB 2.0 should work connected to a USB 1.1 port.
The Hawking HWU8DD "Supports USB 2.0/1.1/1.0 interface".
"Note: to obtain the best possible wireless data speeds you must attach the
device to a hi-speed USB 2.0 port on your computer. If the device is
plugged into a USB 1.1 port it will work at a lower speed."
--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5
On Jun 13, 1:08 am, d...@22.usenet.us.com wrote:
> Joe Bedford <joebedf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > BTW, does the documentation for the Hawking adapter give any hint that
> > it will work with USB 1.1? Everything I could find says 2.0 only.
>
> Anything that works on USB 2.0 should work connected to a USB 1.1 port.
>
> The Hawking HWU8DD "Supports USB 2.0/1.1/1.0 interface".
> "Note: to obtain the best possible wireless data speeds you must attach the
> device to a hi-speed USB 2.0 port on your computer. If the device is
> plugged into a USB 1.1 port it will work at a lower speed."
>
> --
> Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5
Thanks. I just looked at the spec sheets for the products the OP
mentionned.
I suspect if I have to be stuck with a wire, I'll be better of with,
say, a gaming adapter attached to my ethernet port rather than the
old, slow USB 1.1 that I have.
Joe Bedford wrote:
> On Jun 13, 1:08 am, d...@22.usenet.us.com wrote:
>> Joe Bedford <joebedf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>> BTW, does the documentation for the Hawking adapter give any hint
>>> that it will work with USB 1.1? Everything I could find says 2.0
>>> only.
>>
>> Anything that works on USB 2.0 should work connected to a USB 1.1
>> port.
>>
>> The Hawking HWU8DD "Supports USB 2.0/1.1/1.0 interface".
>> "Note: to obtain the best possible wireless data speeds you must
>> attach the device to a hi-speed USB 2.0 port on your computer. If
>> the device is plugged into a USB 1.1 port it will work at a lower
>> speed."
>>
>> --
>> Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5
>
> Thanks. I just looked at the spec sheets for the products the OP
> mentionned.
>
> I suspect if I have to be stuck with a wire, I'll be better of with,
> say, a gaming adapter attached to my ethernet port rather than the
> old, slow USB 1.1 that I have.
>
> Cheers, Joe
You may want to rethink that.. The speed you get is going to be limited by
the slowest speed device in the system ( usually the connection to the
internet, think water, you may plumb with 3/4" pipe, but if you had a 1/4"
feed, that would limit the 3/4 pipe to the amount of water a 1/4 pipe can
transfer).. Point is that whether it is cable or DSL (usual max around 6-8
Mbps), it is still going to be way way slower than USB 1.1 (about 12
Mbps).....
Just an aside, to maximize the sales of usb 2.0, you always see the term "up
to" in regards to it's speed.... guess what..... "up to" are weasel words,
actual speeds are 3-20 MB (24-160 Mb).. a far cry from 480 :)
Peter Pan <PeterPanNOSPAM@akamailnospam.com> wrote:
> > I suspect if I have to be stuck with a wire, I'll be better of with,
> > say, a gaming adapter attached to my ethernet port rather than the old,
> > slow USB 1.1 that I have.
> You may want to rethink that.. The speed you get is going to be limited by
> the slowest speed device in the system ( usually the connection to the
Most hot spots are still 802.11b, so the adapter doesn't need to be any
faster than that, and the connection to the Internet might be satellite in
some RV parks, which I think is around 700Kbps. Even a moderate cable
connection won't be faster than a slow WiFi link.
You will also not achieve maximum radio rates at a distance from the WAP.
I have a USB 1.1 WiFi 802.11b dongle that used to be capable of the same
speed as a wired connection. Recently my cable has gotten faster, so
that's no longer true, but the"b" dongle is still plenty fast enough for
surfing and downloading most things.
It used to be that the USB gadgets were much cheaper than the Ethernet
client gadgets. The more "powerful" units are about the same price, but
the USB gadgets are self-powered, essentially, where the Ethernet gadgets
will need separate power.
My most recent engagement isn't resolved yet. A Thinkpad built in
adapter gets a signal from the desired hot spot, but my DWL-120 dongle does
not, even when I add a coffee can reflector. The desktop that I want to
connect is more than 15 feet away from the window where I hope to get
signal, but when I add a second repeater USB cable to the cost of a USB
adapter like the HWU8DD, I exceed the cost of an Ethernet gaming adapter.
The gaming adapter wouldn't already include the antenna, so that would
raise that cost. The desktop is USB 1.1.
The Hawking HWBA54G might be the ticket, in client mode, with a
freeantennas.com EZ-12 Windsurfer reflector. I will have power available
at the window, so that's not a problem. The reviews look bad, but then it
seems that the only reviews are written by unhappy users "I'm on hold for
customer support as I write this".
The complaints about the manual are not true of the manual downloaded from
the web site today, and the complaints about the "new" firmware that needs
to be downloaded seems to refer to firmware dated 8/24/2005. If that's
still shipping in current boxes, that's bad, but now that you know, updating
to the latest firmware before doing anything else seems wise.
There are gaming adapters, and there are some other routers that have a
client mode. The Hawking just caught my eye today.
--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5
On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 05:08:07 +0000 (UTC), dold@22.usenet.us.com wrote in
<f4nu3n$hs5$1@blue.rahul.net>:
>Joe Bedford <joebedford@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> BTW, does the documentation for the Hawking adapter give any hint that
>> it will work with USB 1.1? Everything I could find says 2.0 only.
>
>Anything that works on USB 2.0 should work connected to a USB 1.1 port.
Most will, but some won't (e.g., my NEC DVD burner).
--
Best regards, FAQ for Wireless Internet: <http://Wireless.wikia.com>
John Navas FAQ for Wi-Fi: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi>
Wi-Fi How To: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi_HowTo>
Fixes to Wi-Fi Problems: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi_Fixes>
On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 10:59:38 -0400, "Peter Pan"
<PeterPanNOSPAM@AkamailNOSPAM.com> wrote in
<ududnY_FTqPDm-3bnZ2dnUVZ_sapnZ2d@comcast.com>:
>You may want to rethink that.. The speed you get is going to be limited by
>the slowest speed device in the system ( usually the connection to the
>internet, think water, you may plumb with 3/4" pipe, but if you had a 1/4"
>feed, that would limit the 3/4 pipe to the amount of water a 1/4 pipe can
>transfer).. Point is that whether it is cable or DSL (usual max around 6-8
>Mbps), it is still going to be way way slower than USB 1.1 (about 12
>Mbps).....
That's 12 Mbps raw. Actually throughput will be quite a bit less than
that.
--
Best regards, FAQ for Wireless Internet: <http://Wireless.wikia.com>
John Navas FAQ for Wi-Fi: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi>
Wi-Fi How To: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi_HowTo>
Fixes to Wi-Fi Problems: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi_Fixes>
John Navas wrote:
> On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 10:59:38 -0400, "Peter Pan"
> <PeterPanNOSPAM@AkamailNOSPAM.com> wrote in
> <ududnY_FTqPDm-3bnZ2dnUVZ_sapnZ2d@comcast.com>:
>
>> You may want to rethink that.. The speed you get is going to be
>> limited by the slowest speed device in the system ( usually the
>> connection to the internet, think water, you may plumb with 3/4"
>> pipe, but if you had a 1/4" feed, that would limit the 3/4 pipe to
>> the amount of water a 1/4 pipe can transfer).. Point is that whether
>> it is cable or DSL (usual max around 6-8 Mbps), it is still going to
>> be way way slower than USB 1.1 (about 12 Mbps).....
>
> That's 12 Mbps raw. Actually throughput will be quite a bit less than
> that.
My notes say 20 Mbps raw, and about 12 Mbps actual... Either way it's faster
than the cable or DSL modem... guess I should have just said way faster,
rather than way way faster.... :)
On Thu, 14 Jun 2007 01:37:59 -0400, "Peter Pan"
<PeterPanNOSPAM@AkamailNOSPAM.com> wrote in
<7_qdnYgzXoehSe3bnZ2dnUVZ_oipnZ2d@comcast.com>:
>John Navas wrote:
>> On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 10:59:38 -0400, "Peter Pan"
>> <PeterPanNOSPAM@AkamailNOSPAM.com> wrote in
>> <ududnY_FTqPDm-3bnZ2dnUVZ_sapnZ2d@comcast.com>:
>>
>>> You may want to rethink that.. The speed you get is going to be
>>> limited by the slowest speed device in the system ( usually the
>>> connection to the internet, think water, you may plumb with 3/4"
>>> pipe, but if you had a 1/4" feed, that would limit the 3/4 pipe to
>>> the amount of water a 1/4 pipe can transfer).. Point is that whether
>>> it is cable or DSL (usual max around 6-8 Mbps), it is still going to
>>> be way way slower than USB 1.1 (about 12 Mbps).....
>>
>> That's 12 Mbps raw. Actually throughput will be quite a bit less than
>> that.
>
>My notes say 20 Mbps raw, and about 12 Mbps actual... Either way it's faster
>than the cable or DSL modem... guess I should have just said way faster,
>rather than way way faster.... :)
12 Mbps raw. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus>
Figure about 4-6 Mbps throughout on bulk transfer with a good
implementation, which could be a limiting factor, particularly if the
implementation is actually worse than that.
--
Best regards, FAQ for Wireless Internet: <http://Wireless.wikia.com>
John Navas FAQ for Wi-Fi: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi>
Wi-Fi How To: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi_HowTo>
Fixes to Wi-Fi Problems: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi_Fixes>
On Jun 12, 8:51 pm, Joe Bedford <joebedf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm glad your solution works in your RV. I too am an RVer but I want a
> wireless solution so I can move about inside and outside my rig.
>
Build your own two radio repeater:
Instead of a USB adapter, use a wireless ethernet bridge with whatever
antenna it needs outside the metal box to connect to the hotspot.
Run an ethernet cable from bridge to a second wireless router or
access point to cover your RV locally.
Add additional ethernet cables to any fixed computers or for extra
coverage in dead spots
Big problem is how get indoor and outdoor coverage with one AP. Metal
RVs are RF shields. Not much gets in or out. Placing the AP by a
window will allow some outdoor coverage.
On Jun 13, 10:59 am, "Peter Pan" <PeterPanNOS...@AkamailNOSPAM.com>
wrote:
> Joe Bedford wrote:
> > On Jun 13, 1:08 am, d...@22.usenet.us.com wrote:
> >> Joe Bedford <joebedf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >>> BTW, does the documentation for the Hawking adapter give any hint
> >>> that it will work with USB 1.1? Everything I could find says 2.0
> >>> only.
>
> >> Anything that works on USB 2.0 should work connected to a USB 1.1
> >> port.
>
> >> The Hawking HWU8DD "Supports USB 2.0/1.1/1.0 interface".
> >> "Note: to obtain the best possible wireless data speeds you must
> >> attach the device to a hi-speed USB 2.0 port on your computer. If
> >> the device is plugged into a USB 1.1 port it will work at a lower
> >> speed."
>
> >> --
> >> Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5
>
> > Thanks. I just looked at the spec sheets for the products the OP
> > mentionned.
>
> > I suspect if I have to be stuck with a wire, I'll be better of with,
> > say, a gaming adapter attached to my ethernet port rather than the
> > old, slow USB 1.1 that I have.
>
> > Cheers, Joe
>
> You may want to rethink that.. The speed you get is going to be limited by
> the slowest speed device in the system ( usually the connection to the
> internet, think water, you may plumb with 3/4" pipe, but if you had a 1/4"
> feed, that would limit the 3/4 pipe to the amount of water a 1/4 pipe can
> transfer).. Point is that whether it is cable or DSL (usual max around 6-8
> Mbps), it is still going to be way way slower than USB 1.1 (about 12
> Mbps).....
> Just an aside, to maximize the sales of usb 2.0, you always see the term "up
> to" in regards to it's speed.... guess what..... "up to" are weasel words,
> actual speeds are 3-20 MB (24-160 Mb).. a far cry from 480 :)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yes, I understand that. I was more concerned about compatibility than
throughput. When I'm RVing usually what I'm doing is checking email
and paying bills with the occasional "google this or google that"
thrown in. I don't need high-speed but what I do want is a rock solid
connection where I don't have to stand on one foot in the bedroom
pointing exactly NNE to get it to work (so to speak).
I really wanted a wireless solution but if I have to be tethered by
some kind of cable, ethernet gives more length flexibility than USB.
BTW, I have a camera and a backup drive and they both work on USB 1.1
but are vastly faster on my USB2.0 equipped machine.
>
> Yes, I understand that. I was more concerned about compatibility than
> throughput. When I'm RVing usually what I'm doing is checking email
> and paying bills with the occasional "google this or google that"
> thrown in. I don't need high-speed but what I do want is a rock solid
> connection where I don't have to stand on one foot in the bedroom
> pointing exactly NNE to get it to work (so to speak).
>
> I really wanted a wireless solution but if I have to be tethered by
> some kind of cable, ethernet gives more length flexibility than USB.
>
> BTW, I have a camera and a backup drive and they both work on USB 1.1
> but are vastly faster on my USB2.0 equipped machine.
>
> Cheers, Joe
In that case you may want to consider this (had it in my RV, external
antenna on the TV antenna mast (had sat too for TV) so I could turn it,
cable to the fridge vent, amp to power behind the fridge, and then an omni
antenna inside to make the whole inside of the RV WiFi friendly (metal
walls, blocked the signal from outside big time)
For some nifty ideas see the whole website and look at their accessories
(yagi/panel/omni/antennas etc) bet you can come up with some real cool
ideas...
Joe Bedford <joebedford@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Yes, I understand that. I was more concerned about compatibility than
> throughput. When I'm RVing usually what I'm doing is checking email
> and paying bills with the occasional "google this or google that"
> thrown in. I don't need high-speed but what I do want is a rock solid
> connection where I don't have to stand on one foot in the bedroom
> pointing exactly NNE to get it to work (so to speak).
It might not be rock solid in some remote campgrounds, but anything along an
interstate probably has cellular coverage.
I see bankofamerica has a .mobi tool to access online banking on a
cellphone, and yahoo/aol/sbc-yahoo/gmail all work on most cell phones.
You could also tether a PC to a cellphone, which yields somewhere between
fast dialup and DSL, depending on the equipment and location.
I tether a PC via Bluetooth to a cellphone propped in the window on
Cingular, and see from 80-100Kbits/sec. It used to be 30Kbits/sec, but it
upgraded here, recently.
Newer cellphones go faster in major metropolitan areas.
--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5
> My most recent engagement isn't resolved yet....
snip ...
The Hawking HWBA54G might be the ticket, in client mode, with a
> freeantennas.com EZ-12 Windsurfer reflector. I will have power available
> at the window, so that's not a problem. The reviews look bad, but
In your case, Clarence, why not go with the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 and
install DD-WRT on it? It will be as flexible as the Hawking and with
a reflector on the included *4dbi* antenna, you are quite good to go
for $60.
Plus it's a lot more tool for future use than a gaming adapter or a
usb + extension.
I guess that's what your are thinking with that Hawking -
I strongly suggest the Buffalo with DD-WRT instead. More options,
cheaper, more common for getting support online. There are DD-WRT
tutorials, forums etc. And good reviews for the Buffalo all around.
seaweedsteve wrote:
> On Jun 12, 8:51 pm, Joe Bedford <joebedf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm glad your solution works in your RV. I too am an RVer but I want a
>> wireless solution so I can move about inside and outside my rig.
>>
>
> Build your own two radio repeater:
> Instead of a USB adapter, use a wireless ethernet bridge with whatever
> antenna it needs outside the metal box to connect to the hotspot.
> Run an ethernet cable from bridge to a second wireless router or
> access point to cover your RV locally.
> Add additional ethernet cables to any fixed computers or for extra
> coverage in dead spots
>
>
> Big problem is how get indoor and outdoor coverage with one AP. Metal
> RVs are RF shields. Not much gets in or out. Placing the AP by a
> window will allow some outdoor coverage.
>
> Steve
>
>
I hope this thread isn't dead yet, because I need to hijack it. :-)
All the stuff I've heard lately seems to say that you can't get internet
from a wireless router > wireless bridge>ethernet cable>2nd wireless
router > wireless to various computers with wireless adapters.
This is precisely what I need to do (I think). There's an existing
DSL>Linksys WRT54G that I can 'see' wirelessly (by using a directional
antenna) from a window in my shop, but I need to turn a corner around
obstructions so that a wifi internet signal will be available to the
computers with wireless adapters in my house. There is also a computer
in the shop that can be ethernet cabled to whatever wireless device
'sees' the WRT54G. My computers need to talk to each other, but do not
need to talk to any computers on the WRT54G's native network; they just
need to get internet access.
Can this be achieved with one of the wireless routers that can be
configured as a bridge, or must a 'by design' wireless/wired bridge be used?
I can use the computer in the shop to 'share' internet access through an
additional wireless device, if that's a better way to do it.
I currently have on my shelf an old D-Link DI-514 ('B' speed), a
Motorola WR850G and a CompUSA wireless router that doesn't seem to have
an actual model number (SKU is 333628).
Can any of these be used as either wireless bridge to wired/wireless
router, or wireless bridge to ethernet>desktop>shared internet via
another wireless device (router? access point?)? I'll happily buy
another device if it will get me working at an affordable price.
The closest thing possible to a 'cookbook' approach will be needed at my
experience level. I've been reading the wikis & other sites, but I'm
having a problem building a strong base of knowledge to get where I need
to be with this project. I've read through some of the wrt.org stuff &
it looks very powerful, but a B-2 bomber is only powerful if you know
how to fly it....
If anyone is willing to take this on 'off-line', I'd be grateful & I'll
be happy to write up a how-to-for-dummies once I get it working. My
reply-to address is a working address.
Charlie wrote:
> I hope this thread isn't dead yet, because I need to hijack it. :-)
>
> All the stuff I've heard lately seems to say that you can't get
> internet from a wireless router > wireless bridge>ethernet cable>2nd
> wireless router > wireless to various computers with wireless adapters.
>
> This is precisely what I need to do (I think). There's an existing
>> Linksys WRT54G that I can 'see' wirelessly (by using a directional
> antenna) from a window in my shop, but I need to turn a corner around
> obstructions so that a wifi internet signal will be available to the
> computers with wireless adapters in my house. There is also a computer
> in the shop that can be ethernet cabled to whatever wireless device
> 'sees' the WRT54G. My computers need to talk to each other, but do not
> need to talk to any computers on the WRT54G's native network; they
> just need to get internet access.
>
> Can this be achieved with one of the wireless routers that can be
> configured as a bridge, or must a 'by design' wireless/wired bridge
> be used?
> I can use the computer in the shop to 'share' internet access through
> an additional wireless device, if that's a better way to do it.
>
> I currently have on my shelf an old D-Link DI-514 ('B' speed), a
> Motorola WR850G and a CompUSA wireless router that doesn't seem to
> have an actual model number (SKU is 333628).
>
> Can any of these be used as either wireless bridge to wired/wireless
> router, or wireless bridge to ethernet>desktop>shared internet via
> another wireless device (router? access point?)? I'll happily buy
> another device if it will get me working at an affordable price.
>
> The closest thing possible to a 'cookbook' approach will be needed at
> my experience level. I've been reading the wikis & other sites, but
> I'm having a problem building a strong base of knowledge to get where I
> need to be with this project. I've read through some of the wrt.org stuff
> &
> it looks very powerful, but a B-2 bomber is only powerful if you know
> how to fly it....
>
> If anyone is willing to take this on 'off-line', I'd be grateful &
> I'll be happy to write up a how-to-for-dummies once I get it working. My
> reply-to address is a working address.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
Depends what you mean by reasonably priced.. Free or willing to spend a few
bucks? (this one is about $299)
Set up a Point to Point solution that can get you miles of range between a
router and a bridge!
At the heart of the CA2400 is a 500mw 2.4 GHZ Bi-Directional amplifier that
increases the signal strength by over 1000%. It allows for quality signal
gain without harmful packet loss associated with other amplifiers.
CA2400A Combines the amplifier with our Ceiling Mount CA-C1000 antenna that
can be placed up to 25' from the amplifier. The increase in strength can
cover an area in excess of 10.000 square feet. At your option you can change
this antenna to our COM24015 Interior Panel Antenna for directional 'push'
to overcome wall signal losses.
Using the CA2400A with a router or access point on you can extend
communication across a few miles to be picked up at the other end with
another CA2400A system connected to a Bridge! All that is required is a
little patience to align the high gain panel antennas that come with the
systems. This is a cost effective solution to extend your network into
another building or location.
============================
Note the last paragraph, you can use it as an input to a local wap/router
You didn't say what neck of the woods you are in, I have one set up at my
house in Northern Idaho (TV Mast on the house with a cable modem, to the TV
mast on the workshop about 1/2 mile away, however during the spring/summer
lots of foliage, and in the winter, lots of snow.. both really screw up the
fresnel zone clearance, so the height was needed for reliability)
=======================================
In your case, think panel antenna outside pointed at the wifi source around
the corner, the lan/amp, and that to the wan in on a wap/router to give you
both wired and wireless
Peter Pan wrote:
> Charlie wrote:
>> I hope this thread isn't dead yet, because I need to hijack it. :-)
>>
>> All the stuff I've heard lately seems to say that you can't get
>> internet from a wireless router > wireless bridge>ethernet cable>2nd
>> wireless router > wireless to various computers with wireless adapters.
>>
>> This is precisely what I need to do (I think). There's an existing
>>> Linksys WRT54G that I can 'see' wirelessly (by using a directional
>> antenna) from a window in my shop, but I need to turn a corner around
>> obstructions so that a wifi internet signal will be available to the
>> computers with wireless adapters in my house. There is also a computer
>> in the shop that can be ethernet cabled to whatever wireless device
>> 'sees' the WRT54G. My computers need to talk to each other, but do not
>> need to talk to any computers on the WRT54G's native network; they
>> just need to get internet access.
>>
>> Can this be achieved with one of the wireless routers that can be
>> configured as a bridge, or must a 'by design' wireless/wired bridge
>> be used?
>> I can use the computer in the shop to 'share' internet access through
>> an additional wireless device, if that's a better way to do it.
>>
>> I currently have on my shelf an old D-Link DI-514 ('B' speed), a
>> Motorola WR850G and a CompUSA wireless router that doesn't seem to
>> have an actual model number (SKU is 333628).
>>
>> Can any of these be used as either wireless bridge to wired/wireless
>> router, or wireless bridge to ethernet>desktop>shared internet via
>> another wireless device (router? access point?)? I'll happily buy
>> another device if it will get me working at an affordable price.
>>
>> The closest thing possible to a 'cookbook' approach will be needed at
>> my experience level. I've been reading the wikis & other sites, but
>> I'm having a problem building a strong base of knowledge to get where I
>> need to be with this project. I've read through some of the wrt.org stuff
>> &
>> it looks very powerful, but a B-2 bomber is only powerful if you know
>> how to fly it....
>>
>> If anyone is willing to take this on 'off-line', I'd be grateful &
>> I'll be happy to write up a how-to-for-dummies once I get it working. My
>> reply-to address is a working address.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
>
> Depends what you mean by reasonably priced.. Free or willing to spend a few
> bucks? (this one is about $299)
>
> From http://www.cellantenna.com/repeater/...anwireless.htm
>
> Set up a Point to Point solution that can get you miles of range between a
> router and a bridge!
>
> At the heart of the CA2400 is a 500mw 2.4 GHZ Bi-Directional amplifier that
> increases the signal strength by over 1000%. It allows for quality signal
> gain without harmful packet loss associated with other amplifiers.
>
> CA2400A Combines the amplifier with our Ceiling Mount CA-C1000 antenna that
> can be placed up to 25' from the amplifier. The increase in strength can
> cover an area in excess of 10.000 square feet. At your option you can change
> this antenna to our COM24015 Interior Panel Antenna for directional 'push'
> to overcome wall signal losses.
>
> Using the CA2400A with a router or access point on you can extend
> communication across a few miles to be picked up at the other end with
> another CA2400A system connected to a Bridge! All that is required is a
> little patience to align the high gain panel antennas that come with the
> systems. This is a cost effective solution to extend your network into
> another building or location.
>
> ============================
> Note the last paragraph, you can use it as an input to a local wap/router
>
> From the same place, http://www.cellantenna.com/Antennas/ISM.htm
> panel antenna for the above about $59 (much easier to aim and windproof than
> a yagi)
>
> You didn't say what neck of the woods you are in, I have one set up at my
> house in Northern Idaho (TV Mast on the house with a cable modem, to the TV
> mast on the workshop about 1/2 mile away, however during the spring/summer
> lots of foliage, and in the winter, lots of snow.. both really screw up the
> fresnel zone clearance, so the height was needed for reliability)
>
> =======================================
> In your case, think panel antenna outside pointed at the wifi source around
> the corner, the lan/amp, and that to the wan in on a wap/router to give you
> both wired and wireless
>
>
Thanks for the reply. My problem isn't making the 1st 800' wireless link
work, but in setting up my little personal network.
I can reach the original wireless router with just a cantenna or other
cheap/easily fabricated directional antenna. My problem is learning what
to use & how to configure the wireless/wired devices to get my computers
talking to each other and able to see the internet through the that
existing wireless router.
seaweedsteve <seaweedsteve@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jun 13, 4:36 pm, d...@22.usenet.us.com wrote:
> > The Hawking HWBA54G might be the ticket, in client mode, with a
> > freeantennas.com EZ-12 Windsurfer reflector. I will have power available
> > at the window, so that's not a problem. The reviews look bad, but
> In your case, Clarence, why not go with the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 and
> install DD-WRT on it? It will be as flexible as the Hawking and with
> a reflector on the included *4dbi* antenna, you are quite good to go
> for $60.
Installing 3rd party firmware doesn't sound so good for a
drop-in-someone-else's house solution.
> Plus it's a lot more tool for future use than a gaming adapter or a
> usb + extension.
That would be true, and the USB gets unwieldly if the PC isn't close enough
to the window.
> I strongly suggest the Buffalo with DD-WRT instead. More options,
> cheaper, more common for getting support online. There are DD-WRT
> tutorials, forums etc. And good reviews for the Buffalo all around.
> I can vouch for ours !
Real recommendations are always good.
I would like a router with a factory client mode. The Hawking is one.
I think there is a Linksys now that also has a factory client mode.
--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5
On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 07:56:26 -0500, Charlie <mcsophie@gmail.com>
wrote:
>Thanks for the reply. My problem isn't making the 1st 800' wireless link
>work, but in setting up my little personal network.
>
>I can reach the original wireless router with just a cantenna or other
>cheap/easily fabricated directional antenna. My problem is learning what
>to use & how to configure the wireless/wired devices to get my computers
> talking to each other and able to see the internet through the that
>existing wireless router.
>
>Any thoughts?
Well, if you have a computer with windows that can connect to
the distant point, then run a proxy server (windows IWS can
probably do this) on that computer to allow the other computers
to have access to the remote point via the computer running the
proxy server.
Charlie wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. My problem isn't making the 1st 800' wireless
> link work, but in setting up my little personal network.
>
> I can reach the original wireless router with just a cantenna or other
> cheap/easily fabricated directional antenna. My problem is learning
> what to use & how to configure the wireless/wired devices to get my
> computers talking to each other and able to see the internet through
> the that existing wireless router.
>
> Any thoughts?
have you considered just using the cantenna as input to a wap/router? (ie
replace one of the rubber ducky antennas with the cantenna, and turn the
other off! (they are usually labeled main and aux, just use the main
connection and turn the aux off)
Peter Pan wrote:
> Charlie wrote:
>> Thanks for the reply. My problem isn't making the 1st 800' wireless
>> link work, but in setting up my little personal network.
>>
>> I can reach the original wireless router with just a cantenna or other
>> cheap/easily fabricated directional antenna. My problem is learning
>> what to use & how to configure the wireless/wired devices to get my
>> computers talking to each other and able to see the internet through
>> the that existing wireless router.
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>
> have you considered just using the cantenna as input to a wap/router? (ie
> replace one of the rubber ducky antennas with the cantenna, and turn the
> other off! (they are usually labeled main and aux, just use the main
> connection and turn the aux off)
>
>
Thanks, but the cantenna portion really isn't the issue. I cannot (&
don't need to) alter the existing DSL>WRT54G setup; it's my neighbor's
system.
My question is: what device(s) to use & how to configure those devices
to get broadband internet wirelessly to multiple computers in my shop &
house. Only one window of the shop has line of site to the WRT54G; I
must either 'repeat' or use some other technique to get wifi to the rest
of my future personal network.
I continue to read all I can find, & it looks like I need either a
wireless-to-wired 'bridge' or a wireless 'client' to get internet from
the WRT54G to my own private network. Does that sound right?
It's really a network device configuration question. Perhaps I need to
ask the question on purely network oriented list?
> Installing 3rd party firmware doesn't sound so good for a
> drop-in-someone-else's house solution.
>
I do it. One of our LAN clients already had a linksys wrt54g v4 and I
put DD-WRT on it and turned it into an ethernet client adapter. They
don't know the difference or care.
I marked "DD-WRT" with the reset-default IP and passwords as well as
current IP and passwords so anyone could use it before or after reset,
but don't anticipate that happening.
The only disadvantage I can see is:
1) if the "someone-else's" have to install the firmware themselves
and are not up to it
2) The router might possibly be returned under warranty
Advantages for somebody like you are too numerous to mention, but the
newest one I'm liking is Rflow (netflow) for monitoring. Try to get
that with factory firmware on SOHO routers ! And the features keep
growing. I also really like the idea of having one firmware that
works on various boxes. Simplifies setup, monitoring and management.
On Jun 17, 10:08 pm, Charlie <mcsop...@gmail.com> wrote:
> My question is: what device(s) to use & how to configure those devices
> to get broadband internet wirelessly to multiple computers in my shop &
> house. Only one window of the shop has line of site to the WRT54G; I
> must either 'repeat' or use some other technique to get wifi to the rest
> of my future personal network.
>
> I continue to read all I can find, & it looks like I need either a
> wireless-to-wired 'bridge' or a wireless 'client' to get internet from
> the WRT54G to my own private network. Does that sound right?
>
YES that's right. I thought I answered this yesterday, but it
didn't show up.
Whatever you use for that end, you can certainly use one of your
existing wireless routers as an AP/router for the rest of your house
by connecting it with a cable to the ethernet bridge.
This is a good solution. You can do it for free if your Motorola
WR850G is v2 or v3 and you are up to fiddling with firmware
flashing. If you decide to buy, then the Buffalo HP ethernet adapter
is a good choice for about $60.
The setup for both the client adapter and your local wireless router
should be typical and straightforward in your application.
Charlie wrote:
> Peter Pan wrote:
>> Charlie wrote:
>>> Thanks for the reply. My problem isn't making the 1st 800' wireless
>>> link work, but in setting up my little personal network.
>>>
>>> I can reach the original wireless router with just a cantenna or
>>> other cheap/easily fabricated directional antenna. My problem is
>>> learning what to use & how to configure the wireless/wired devices
>>> to get my computers talking to each other and able to see the
>>> internet through the that existing wireless router.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> have you considered just using the cantenna as input to a
>> wap/router? (ie replace one of the rubber ducky antennas with the
>> cantenna, and turn the other off! (they are usually labeled main and
>> aux, just use the main connection and turn the aux off)
>>
>>
> Thanks, but the cantenna portion really isn't the issue. I cannot (&
> don't need to) alter the existing DSL>WRT54G setup; it's my neighbor's
> system.
>
> My question is: what device(s) to use & how to configure those devices
> to get broadband internet wirelessly to multiple computers in my shop
> & house. Only one window of the shop has line of site to the WRT54G; I
> must either 'repeat' or use some other technique to get wifi to the
> rest of my future personal network.
>
> I continue to read all I can find, & it looks like I need either a
> wireless-to-wired 'bridge' or a wireless 'client' to get internet from
> the WRT54G to my own private network. Does that sound right?
>
> It's really a network device configuration question. Perhaps I need to
> ask the question on purely network oriented list?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
Even easier then.... Worry about getting your network working the way you
want, but use a different subnet (third number in the octet address range)
so your computers will be totally isolated from your neighbors, any programs
using the internet will try and use subnet 1, which tthe internet will be
on, but not your network computers, and then just have the input for
internet go into the router part of the wap/router... For the cantenna part,
they make Ethernet "dongles" (like USB ones, but way more expensive, usually
$120), consider an ethernet dongle inside the cantenna, and then just plug
that ethernet into your router...
seaweedsteve wrote:
> On Jun 17, 10:08 pm, Charlie <mcsop...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> My question is: what device(s) to use & how to configure those devices
>> to get broadband internet wirelessly to multiple computers in my shop &
>> house. Only one window of the shop has line of site to the WRT54G; I
>> must either 'repeat' or use some other technique to get wifi to the rest
>> of my future personal network.
>>
>> I continue to read all I can find, & it looks like I need either a
>> wireless-to-wired 'bridge' or a wireless 'client' to get internet from
>> the WRT54G to my own private network. Does that sound right?
>>
>
> YES that's right. I thought I answered this yesterday, but it
> didn't show up.
>
> Again:
>
> Your Motorola MAY take replacement firmware. Go to the DD-WRT wiki
> here:
> http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Supported_Devices
>
> If not, you can get a DD-WRT compatible router and set it up with DD-
> WRT as mentioned in my above posts in client mode.
>
> OR
>
> For the simplest solution, just buy a dedicated ethernet bridge like
> the Buffalo:
> http://www.provantage.com/buffalo-te...p~7BFLO025.htm
>
>
> Whatever you use for that end, you can certainly use one of your
> existing wireless routers as an AP/router for the rest of your house
> by connecting it with a cable to the ethernet bridge.
>
> This is a good solution. You can do it for free if your Motorola
> WR850G is v2 or v3 and you are up to fiddling with firmware
> flashing. If you decide to buy, then the Buffalo HP ethernet adapter
> is a good choice for about $60.
>
> The setup for both the client adapter and your local wireless router
> should be typical and straightforward in your application.
>
> Steve
>
Ahhh...I can finally see daylight! The back-to-back bridge/access point
is what I was hoping for, so I can get the wifi to the wired desktop in
the shop and also get wifi to the computers in the house.
I'll play with DD-WRT on the Motorola & if I don't have quick success,
I'll spring for the Buffalo. $60 is a very reasonable figure to reach my
goal.
Thanks to all for their help; I'll post my results when I get everything
up & running.
BTW, just to satisfy my curiosity, does the back-to-back bridge/access
point setup avoid the problem of halving throughput when using a plain
wireless repeater like the Linksys WRE54G?
On Jun 18, 7:16 pm, Charlie <mcsop...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'll play with DD-WRT on the Motorola & if I don't have quick success,
> I'll spring for the Buffalo. $60 is a very reasonable figure to reach my
> goal.
>
I skimmed over that section on flashing the Motorola (check the
version number out first!) and suggest that you use the 3rd method,
*tftp flashing*. It works easily on the Buffalos and is not as hard
as it looks. They recommend it as safest too.
Couple of things:
Make sure you get the right file sorted out, I believe you have to
start with a MICRO version initially but can web- flash up from there,
if you need to. Micro will do client mode.
..
Save the right file for the router on your C drive and just command
line it over to the router at the specified moment. If it fails, it
just doesn't take. I'm not a command line person much, but it was
easy enough.
If the motorola is like the others, the main thing you have to be
careful about is waiting a long time after it confirms the transfer
for it to fully take before doing a reboot. As was said, get a cup of
coffee.
> Thanks to all for their help; I'll post my results when I get everything
> up & running.
>
> BTW, just to satisfy my curiosity, does the back-to-back bridge/access
> point setup avoid the problem of halving throughput when using a plain
> wireless repeater like the Linksys WRE54G?
I understand it that way. Your local router/AP is not doing store and
forward. Neither is the client bridge.
I suppose there's still interference and I would seperate the channels
as much as possible.
Re: RV Wireless Solution 
Linear Mode
