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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2007, 05:55 PM
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: wireless application

joecool <joecool.2v63av@no-mx.wirelessforums.org> hath wroth:

>Have a relative with a cottage on a campground that recently put in free
>wifi for its members. But of course in her cottage she can't pick up the
>signal inside. Outside on the porch, she might grab signal at 20% or
>less, and hops around a lot. So I have been assigned with the task of
>"fixing her problem".
>
>Here is the info I gathered doing a site survey...
>First of all, I do not administer the local signal being put out, so I
>have no specific details or control over it.


Really? How about a photograph of the equipment or the antennas?

>Looks like they have an outside panel antenna mounted to a tower next
>to the main office. That's where the source is originating from. Her
>cottage is about 600 - 700 feet or so away from the originating antenna.


At 700ft, you're going to need a directional antenna at her end.

>Also through reasonable tree coverage, and over a small hill.


1. There is no such thing as a reasonable tree. Every time I've
tried to convince a tree to let my RF pass, the tree rejects my pleas.
I've tried various offerings and incantations, but nothing will make
the tree pass my signals.

2. Hills, whether small or large are even worse. Every time I try to
invoke the hill god to let my signal pass, the hill responds with
something like "eat dirt you worthless human". I suspect they are in
colusion with the trees.

>I used a
>laptop with a usb wireless adapter and an active usb extension mounted
>to a pole. Walked around trying various spots and heights with Cirond
>WinC software to measure strength.


Good. That's the way I do it but I use an ethernet wireless bridge
instead of USB. Actually, the last time I did it, I hung a wireless
router running in client mode on the back of a dish. Whatever works.

>What I found was at a certain
>location towards the rear of the cottage and about 10ft up, I would pick
>up signal at about 50% (I could never get more than that due to the
>distance I am guessing). By looking at the signal path visually, this
>was going through multiple trees, and one old building made of wood. by
>going up a minimum of 10ft, I was clearing the small hill. I am guessing
>they must be pumping out some decent power to be picking up 50% signal
>strength at a distance of 600ft or so and the trees & building.


I predict inevitable doom. It's easy enough to get a marginal
connection almost anywhere you have signal. However, keeping that
connection among the swaying trees and branches is going to be a
problem. In addition, you're apparently skirting the top of a small
hill, which probably puts it in the Fresnel Zone, which creates more
loss and more weirdness. I think you could probably make it work, but
I doubt if you can keep it working.

Try this simple test. Take you test pole and plant it firmly into the
ground with some kind of temporary tripod support. Aim and position
it as best you can. Then run Netstumbler for a while and watch the
signal levels. My guess is you'll see huge variations as things move
around (which includes you moving around).

My guess is that your unspecified model USB adapter was probably using
the stock ceramic or PCB antenna found in most such bottom of the line
devices. I'd give it an optimistic 0dBi gain. 6dBi is double your
range so I think you have a chance if you get a halfway decent
directional antenna. Notice that I said directional, not
omnidirectional. I suggest you repeat the test using a decent
directional antenna and perhaps 15 to 25 ft of the best coax cable you
can borrow. The coax will present some loss, but the antenna gain
should more than compensate for the loss.

>So here is the plan I have come up with...
>On the cottage, install a outside yagi antenna (+13.9 db) at 10ft up,
>run LMR-400 cable (15ft) into the cabin, connect to a linksys AP
>(WAP56G) in bridge mode, connect that to a WRT54G and broad cast to
>cover her cottage (on a different channel).


Barf. That's the way we did it in the stone age of wireless. It will
work but causes all manner or aesthetic and cable routing problems. I
have one installation in an airport hanger where the router is hanging
from the ceiling where the coax enters to keep things short.

Permit me to offer an alternative. Get a CPE (customer premisis
equipment) client bridge what does PoE (power over ethernet) and has
an external antenna connector. The antenna should be as high, big,
and ugly as possible. However, if it does not clear the hill, don't
bother, it's not going to work no matter how big and ugly. A small
antenna up very high is much better than an a big antenna down low.
Concentrate on the antenna as everything else is secondary.

Run outdoor (gel filled and UV proof) CAT5 from the CPE bridge radio
to the local router or computer. Some client bridges can handle more
than one MAC address so you may not need a router.

That leaves the selection of the mysterious radio. Anything that
calls itself a CPE, client bridge, customer radio, ethernet client
bridge, or similar buzzwords will work. Lots of indoor devices, such
as "game adapters" will also work, but will require waterproofing.
Some possibles:
<http://www.wlanparts.com/c=uBGqjloc2otmlUgD5dXlc2Vw4/category/client_systems/>
There are lots of others, but I'm too lazy to dig them out with
Google.

There are also versions that integrate the radio into the antenna:
<http://www.mikrotik.com/pricelist.php?sect=3#group7>
<http://www.tranzeo.com/products/radios/TR-CPQ-Series>
<http://www.tranzeo.com/products/radios/TR-6000-Series>
<http://www.tranzeo.com/products/radios/TR-CPE90-Series>
Make sure they'll do PoE or make sure you can get a PoE adapter (that
is really a 48VDC 802.3af adapter and some some simulated kludge).

>I am estimating I should be getting about 26 db of signal out.


26dBm(?) out of what?

>I have set up several wireless systems, but not much to do with
>rebroadcasting applications.


Consider yourself fortunate. Methinks repeaters, WDS bridges, and
mesh networks to be a nightmare. Avoid if possible though they all
are tempting. Incidentally, thank you for not suggesting putting a
repeater on top of the pole.

>If I was picking up 50% signal strength
>with my little usb adapter, would that be enough to run the setup I am
>proposing?


Dunno. Run this simple test. Setup your USB gizmo as a wireless
client. ping the access point continuously with something like:
ping 192.168.1.1 -t
If you get a consistent 2-6msec latency for the entire test duration,
I'm sure it can be made to work. If the latency is all over the map
plus some timeouts (which is what I would expect), you have some chain
saw or tower work to do.

>And to connect back at that distance? That should be about twice the
>power my usb adapter has.


Sigh. Double the "power" which I presume means the transmit RF
output, and you increase your range about 1.4 times. You'll barely
notice the increase in signal strength. It will also be in one
direction only as the other end will need to increase its power
identically in order to get a symmetrical improvement. That's another
reason why I suggest you concentrate on the antenna and not the radio.

>I am interested in hearing feedback from anyone who might have
>experience or thoughts in a setup like this.


Lots of experience. I live in a dense redwood, fir, and oak forest.
We're lucky if we can see the sun, much less get any RF through this
mess. I've done quite a bit of experimenting, which includes
repeaters, passive reflectors, brute force power, antenna games, and
beam forming. They all work to some degree, but there's no
replacement for real line of sight and a clear shot.

>Is this overkill, or do I
>need to use an additional amplifier?


Argh. You said a dirty word. Amplifiers are nothing more than
expensive jammers. You do NOT get much of range increase if you can't
hear the response from the other direction. On the other hand,
antennas increase the signal in both directions simultaneously. Think
antennas, not radios, amplfiers, boosters, and range extenders.

>I want to make a good educated
>guess on what I need before I start buying stuff to just try.


Educated guess is an oxymoron. A calculation would be more
interesting. However, I would need to know something about what
equipment is at the access point, the antenna pattern, exact
locations, line of sight, tree type, tree density, hill location, etc.
It's too much for doing this via usenet. You might have to settle for
an uniformed wild guess, which is acceptable if the store has a good
return policy.

>And no I don't think I can go high enough to clear the trees and
>buildings to get LOS. That would take a full blown tower.


Why would you want to blow up a perfectly good tower? How many feet
high would it need to be? Up to about 30ft, a pole will work just
fine. Radio Shock sells a usable 30ft push up pole.

You might also consider going underground to some place with a better
line of sight. I have quite a bit of buried cable running around the
forest and under the road. It's a bit of work, but not impossible.
Local forest soil is mulch, which is quite soft and easy to work. I've
used black flex sprinkler pipe, with CAT5, coax, fiber, etc shoved
inside.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2007, 09:50 PM
Dana
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: wireless application


"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:aufub31pg4d33auas76b111997n77hqiau@4ax.com...
> joecool <joecool.2v63av@no-mx.wirelessforums.org> hath wroth:
>
>>Have a relative with a cottage on a campground that recently put in free
>>wifi for its members. But of course in her cottage she can't pick up the
>>signal inside. Outside on the porch, she might grab signal at 20% or
>>less, and hops around a lot. So I have been assigned with the task of
>>"fixing her problem".
>>
>>Here is the info I gathered doing a site survey...
>>First of all, I do not administer the local signal being put out, so I
>>have no specific details or control over it.

>
> Really? How about a photograph of the equipment or the antennas?
>
>>Looks like they have an outside panel antenna mounted to a tower next
>>to the main office. That's where the source is originating from. Her
>>cottage is about 600 - 700 feet or so away from the originating antenna.

>
> At 700ft, you're going to need a directional antenna at her end.
>
>>Also through reasonable tree coverage, and over a small hill.

>
> 1. There is no such thing as a reasonable tree. Every time I've
> tried to convince a tree to let my RF pass, the tree rejects my pleas.
> I've tried various offerings and incantations, but nothing will make
> the tree pass my signals.


I have had good luck with a chain saw on some trees that were growing to
tall around my radar sites which had microwave antennas pointing towards a
repeater on the hill top.
>
> 2. Hills, whether small or large are even worse. Every time I try to
> invoke the hill god to let my signal pass, the hill responds with
> something like "eat dirt you worthless human". I suspect they are in
> colusion with the trees.


Depending on size of hill and height of antennas OFDM is an improvement over
the older radios.
But yes hills tend to block microwave frequencies. Especially the ones that
infringe on your Frensel zone clearance.
>
>>I used a
>>laptop with a usb wireless adapter and an active usb extension mounted
>>to a pole. Walked around trying various spots and heights with Cirond
>>WinC software to measure strength.

>
> Good. That's the way I do it but I use an ethernet wireless bridge
> instead of USB. Actually, the last time I did it, I hung a wireless
> router running in client mode on the back of a dish. Whatever works.
>
>>What I found was at a certain
>>location towards the rear of the cottage and about 10ft up, I would pick
>>up signal at about 50% (I could never get more than that due to the
>>distance I am guessing). By looking at the signal path visually, this
>>was going through multiple trees, and one old building made of wood. by
>>going up a minimum of 10ft, I was clearing the small hill. I am guessing
>>they must be pumping out some decent power to be picking up 50% signal
>>strength at a distance of 600ft or so and the trees & building.

>
> I predict inevitable doom. It's easy enough to get a marginal
> connection almost anywhere you have signal. However, keeping that
> connection among the swaying trees and branches is going to be a
> problem. In addition, you're apparently skirting the top of a small
> hill, which probably puts it in the Fresnel Zone, which creates more
> loss and more weirdness. I think you could probably make it work, but
> I doubt if you can keep it working.
>
> Try this simple test. Take you test pole and plant it firmly into the
> ground with some kind of temporary tripod support. Aim and position
> it as best you can. Then run Netstumbler for a while and watch the
> signal levels. My guess is you'll see huge variations as things move
> around (which includes you moving around).
>
> My guess is that your unspecified model USB adapter was probably using
> the stock ceramic or PCB antenna found in most such bottom of the line
> devices. I'd give it an optimistic 0dBi gain. 6dBi is double your
> range so I think you have a chance if you get a halfway decent
> directional antenna. Notice that I said directional, not
> omnidirectional. I suggest you repeat the test using a decent
> directional antenna and perhaps 15 to 25 ft of the best coax cable you
> can borrow. The coax will present some loss, but the antenna gain
> should more than compensate for the loss.
>
>>So here is the plan I have come up with...
>>On the cottage, install a outside yagi antenna (+13.9 db) at 10ft up,
>>run LMR-400 cable (15ft) into the cabin, connect to a linksys AP
>>(WAP56G) in bridge mode, connect that to a WRT54G and broad cast to
>>cover her cottage (on a different channel).

>
> Barf. That's the way we did it in the stone age of wireless. It will
> work but causes all manner or aesthetic and cable routing problems. I
> have one installation in an airport hanger where the router is hanging
> from the ceiling where the coax enters to keep things short.
>
> Permit me to offer an alternative. Get a CPE (customer premisis
> equipment) client bridge what does PoE (power over ethernet) and has
> an external antenna connector. The antenna should be as high, big,
> and ugly as possible. However, if it does not clear the hill, don't
> bother, it's not going to work no matter how big and ugly. A small
> antenna up very high is much better than an a big antenna down low.
> Concentrate on the antenna as everything else is secondary.
>
> Run outdoor (gel filled and UV proof) CAT5 from the CPE bridge radio
> to the local router or computer. Some client bridges can handle more
> than one MAC address so you may not need a router.
>
> That leaves the selection of the mysterious radio. Anything that
> calls itself a CPE, client bridge, customer radio, ethernet client
> bridge, or similar buzzwords will work. Lots of indoor devices, such
> as "game adapters" will also work, but will require waterproofing.
> Some possibles:
> <http://www.wlanparts.com/c=uBGqjloc2otmlUgD5dXlc2Vw4/category/client_systems/>
> There are lots of others, but I'm too lazy to dig them out with
> Google.
>
> There are also versions that integrate the radio into the antenna:
> <http://www.mikrotik.com/pricelist.php?sect=3#group7>
> <http://www.tranzeo.com/products/radios/TR-CPQ-Series>
> <http://www.tranzeo.com/products/radios/TR-6000-Series>
> <http://www.tranzeo.com/products/radios/TR-CPE90-Series>
> Make sure they'll do PoE or make sure you can get a PoE adapter (that
> is really a 48VDC 802.3af adapter and some some simulated kludge).
>
>>I am estimating I should be getting about 26 db of signal out.

>
> 26dBm(?) out of what?
>
>>I have set up several wireless systems, but not much to do with
>>rebroadcasting applications.

>
> Consider yourself fortunate. Methinks repeaters, WDS bridges, and
> mesh networks to be a nightmare. Avoid if possible though they all
> are tempting. Incidentally, thank you for not suggesting putting a
> repeater on top of the pole.
>
>>If I was picking up 50% signal strength
>>with my little usb adapter, would that be enough to run the setup I am
>>proposing?

>
> Dunno. Run this simple test. Setup your USB gizmo as a wireless
> client. ping the access point continuously with something like:
> ping 192.168.1.1 -t
> If you get a consistent 2-6msec latency for the entire test duration,
> I'm sure it can be made to work. If the latency is all over the map
> plus some timeouts (which is what I would expect), you have some chain
> saw or tower work to do.
>
>>And to connect back at that distance? That should be about twice the
>>power my usb adapter has.

>
> Sigh. Double the "power" which I presume means the transmit RF
> output, and you increase your range about 1.4 times. You'll barely
> notice the increase in signal strength. It will also be in one
> direction only as the other end will need to increase its power
> identically in order to get a symmetrical improvement. That's another
> reason why I suggest you concentrate on the antenna and not the radio.
>
>>I am interested in hearing feedback from anyone who might have
>>experience or thoughts in a setup like this.

>
> Lots of experience. I live in a dense redwood, fir, and oak forest.
> We're lucky if we can see the sun, much less get any RF through this
> mess. I've done quite a bit of experimenting, which includes
> repeaters, passive reflectors, brute force power, antenna games, and
> beam forming. They all work to some degree, but there's no
> replacement for real line of sight and a clear shot.
>
>>Is this overkill, or do I
>>need to use an additional amplifier?

>
> Argh. You said a dirty word. Amplifiers are nothing more than
> expensive jammers. You do NOT get much of range increase if you can't
> hear the response from the other direction. On the other hand,
> antennas increase the signal in both directions simultaneously. Think
> antennas, not radios, amplfiers, boosters, and range extenders.


If you use an amplifer, as Jeff said that is one way only, you would need an
LNA (tower top amp) for the receive side.
>
>>I want to make a good educated
>>guess on what I need before I start buying stuff to just try.

>
> Educated guess is an oxymoron. A calculation would be more
> interesting. However, I would need to know something about what
> equipment is at the access point, the antenna pattern, exact
> locations, line of sight, tree type, tree density, hill location, etc.
> It's too much for doing this via usenet. You might have to settle for
> an uniformed wild guess, which is acceptable if the store has a good
> return policy.
>
>>And no I don't think I can go high enough to clear the trees and
>>buildings to get LOS. That would take a full blown tower.

>
> Why would you want to blow up a perfectly good tower? How many feet
> high would it need to be? Up to about 30ft, a pole will work just
> fine. Radio Shock sells a usable 30ft push up pole.
>
> You might also consider going underground to some place with a better
> line of sight. I have quite a bit of buried cable running around the
> forest and under the road. It's a bit of work, but not impossible.
> Local forest soil is mulch, which is quite soft and easy to work. I've
> used black flex sprinkler pipe, with CAT5, coax, fiber, etc shoved
> inside.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558




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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2007, 02:49 AM
seaweedsteve
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: wireless application


Although putting a client bridge up with the antenna is probably the
optimal solution for neatness and gain, the approach you are
considering is also workable. LMR 400 will allow you to put the
router inside. At .25 db loss per meter, you can run 8-10 meters of
coax with acceptable loss.

As Jeff said, it would be helpful to have readings from netstumbler in
db. Saying 50% does not indicate much. And check them over time. In
my experience, if I can get consistent 10 db above the noise with a
built-in antenna, then a decent antenna will get me over the hump.
You are looking for 20 db SN minimum in the final setup.

And do see about that ping consistency in a fixed spot next time you
test.

As far as using a yagi or panel antenna, yes, it makes sense, but I do
wonder if your USB's omni is working off reflections. As you narrow
the pattern on the antenna, you may actually eliminate a working
reflection? NOT a reason to choose omni, just a possible reason you
might have trouble with a narrow antenna.

Only way to tell is to test with a directional antenna.

Worst case, you find a nearby spot for the antenna (on the hill?) and
do as Jeff said, running buried ethernet cable from a pole-mounted
ethernet bridge-in-a-box to the cabin.

Steve


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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2007, 04:59 AM
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: wireless application

seaweedsteve <seaweedsteve@gmail.com> hath wroth:

>Although putting a client bridge up with the antenna is probably the
>optimal solution for neatness and gain, the approach you are
>considering is also workable. LMR 400 will allow you to put the
>router inside.


Quiz question: You have a 45 degree (1:1) pitched roof (this is
Vermont where they have snow). The house is 25ft wide. The roof
overhangs the walls about 3ft. Walls are 8ft high. The antenna mast
on the roof is 10ft long. How long an LMR400 coax run from the dish
antenna on the top of the mast, to somewhere useful inside (on a
desk)? Don't forget the drop loop and you can't drill through the
shake roof without trashing the roofers warranty.

Before I grind the numbers, make a guess as to how much coax and see
how close you get.

Starting at the dish antenna feed, we have 2ft of coax between the
dish feed and the pipe including a drip loop. Add 10ft for the mast.
The roof is:
1.4 * 12.5ft = 17.5ft
Going back to the outside wall is about 3ft (including the drip loop).
Down the wall to the floor (on the outside) is 8ft. Through the wall,
into the room, and back up to a desk, add another 6ft. Grand total:
2 + 10 + 17.5 + 3 + 8 + 6 = 46.5 ft
Actually, that seems a bit low. I've done something like that with
pre-cut 50ft lengths of LMR-400 and come up short.

>At .25 db loss per meter, you can run 8-10 meters of
>coax with acceptable loss.


For LMR-400 I use .23dB/meter or 0.07dB/ft. 50ft would be 3.5dB loss
which is tolerable. My objections to using LMR-400 were not because
of attenuation, but because of the difficulties handling the stuff,
going through the walls, dealing with the pigtail, and potential
water/freezing problems.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2007, 08:43 PM
seaweedsteve
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: wireless application

On Aug 13, 11:59 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:


> Quiz question: You have a 45 degree (1:1) pitched roof (this is
> Vermont where they have snow). The house is 25ft wide. The roof
> overhangs the walls about 3ft. Walls are 8ft high. The antenna mast
> on the roof is 10ft long. How long an LMR400 coax run from the dish
> antenna on the top of the mast, to somewhere useful inside (on a
> desk)? Don't forget the drop loop and you can't drill through the
> shake roof without trashing the roofers warranty.
>
> Before I grind the numbers, make a guess as to how much coax and see
> how close you get.


In that case, I'm probably starting to think ethernet and a Rootenna
and wondering about the temperatures.

But honestly, though I've never installed a roof-mounted antenna, I
would be working to reduce that run. Gable or Hipped roof? If
gabled, then a stand-off from the wall on the gable end? Dormers?
Absolutely no roof penetrations that I can take advantage of? Thru
the Ridge vent into the Attic?

In our case, I put the antenna on a pole and tied it up in a tree,
looping the cable over to the eave. The antenna sits a foot above the
tree's crown. Grounded at the base of the tree.

I agree, the setting and requirements of the user (this room not that
room etc) dictate the solution. The longer the run must be, the more
ethernet makes sense.

I mainly just want to round out the answer to the question and
reinforce the idea that coax (LMR400) IS a reasonable approach for
runs under 50 feet.

Alternatively If you or somebody had pointed them to Coax, I would
have mentioned the box-on the-mast alternative !

I suppose that apart from the loss question, one can weigh out the
additional hassles of each:
Lightning devices and pigtails with a cheap router vs POE and more
expensive CPE rig....

Steve


>
> Starting at the dish antenna feed, we have 2ft of coax between the
> dish feed and the pipe including a drip loop. Add 10ft for the mast.
> The roof is:
> 1.4 * 12.5ft = 17.5ft
> Going back to the outside wall is about 3ft (including the drip loop).
> Down the wall to the floor (on the outside) is 8ft. Through the wall,
> into the room, and back up to a desk, add another 6ft. Grand total:
> 2 + 10 + 17.5 + 3 + 8 + 6 = 46.5 ft
> Actually, that seems a bit low. I've done something like that with
> pre-cut 50ft lengths of LMR-400 and come up short.
>
> >At .25 db loss per meter, you can run 8-10 meters of
> >coax with acceptable loss.

>
> For LMR-400 I use .23dB/meter or 0.07dB/ft. 50ft would be 3.5dB loss
> which is tolerable. My objections to using LMR-400 were not because
> of attenuation, but because of the difficulties handling the stuff,
> going through the walls, dealing with the pigtail, and potential
> water/freezing problems.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558




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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2007, 03:42 AM
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: wireless application

seaweedsteve <seaweedsteve@gmail.com> hath wroth:

>In that case, I'm probably starting to think ethernet and a Rootenna
>and wondering about the temperatures.


I'm assuming that some effort will be made to waterproof and
temperature stabilize the radio. Cold weather is easy. The heat from
the radio will be enough to prevent water condensation and circuit
failure. For high temps, an extra metal plate to act as a heat shield
and everything painted glossy white is sufficient. The power
consumption of the current crop of wireless bridges is somewhat less
in the bad old days of trying to remove 20 watts of heat. Some small
client radios burn only 5-7 watts. USB radios burn only 2.5 watts
maximum.

>But honestly,


Honesty will cost you extra.

>though I've never installed a roof-mounted antenna, I
>would be working to reduce that run. Gable or Hipped roof? If
>gabled, then a stand-off from the wall on the gable end? Dormers?
>Absolutely no roof penetrations that I can take advantage of? Thru
>the Ridge vent into the Attic?


All of those will work well. Running the coax or CAT5 through a vent
will reduce the exposed cable run. However, we're talking about a
10ft pole, which may require guy wires. That will move the pole from
the ends of the roof peak, to somewhere near the middle. The coax run
gets longer, etc. Also, there's no way to run LMR-400 coax and make
it also look nice. In areas that have CC&R's, such aesthetic
abominations are always a problem.

I've done some installs with the antenna inside the attic. 2.4Ghz
will sorta go through wood fairly easily. It will not go through tar
and rock shingles. It has problems when the wood gets wet, and fails
completely when there's snow on the roof. Still, for some areas,
through the roof or side wall is a usable alternative.

>In our case, I put the antenna on a pole and tied it up in a tree,
>looping the cable over to the eave. The antenna sits a foot above the
>tree's crown. Grounded at the base of the tree.


No wok or salad bowl dish hanging in the trees?

>I agree, the setting and requirements of the user (this room not that
>room etc) dictate the solution. The longer the run must be, the more
>ethernet makes sense.


Yep. If I can put the antenna in a window, where the coax cable is
very short, then I would certainly do that first as it's the easiest.
However, a 24dBi dish is about 2x3 ft big, which doesn't lend itself
to indoor installations.

>I mainly just want to round out the answer to the question and
>reinforce the idea that coax (LMR400) IS a reasonable approach for
>runs under 50 feet.


Sure. However, not if you're trying to squeeze every last bit of
performance out of the link. Decibels are expensive.

>Alternatively If you or somebody had pointed them to Coax, I would
>have mentioned the box-on the-mast alternative !


Well, if I had mentioned both, would you have suggested a reflector on
top of the pole with a dish antenna pointed upward? (Periscope
antenna). With a high gain dish, that is a workable but mechanically
critical solution.
<http://www.w1ghz.org/antbook/chap8.pdf>
Don't try it in a tree. The tree moving will ruin the aim.

>I suppose that apart from the loss question, one can weigh out the
>additional hassles of each:
>Lightning devices and pigtails with a cheap router vs POE and more
>expensive CPE rig....


Good point. There's very little lightning in my area, so it's not
even a consideration. At the prices of wireless bridges these days,
they're cheaper than a Polyphaser lightning arrestor.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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