wireless router as Lan adapter

I have 3 Linksys wrt54gs riouters that I bought at auction. I am
trying to get rid of the wired network in my house and want to use the
routers as Lan adapters. I was told I could do this if I loaded DD-WRT
on the routers. I loaded them with v24 and they seem to all still work
but I dont have a clue as to how to set them up. The routers still
work fine as wireless routers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Please reply via email

jimmie68@gmail.com

Jimmie

Given that network adapters are SO CHEAP these days, why torment yourself
with this? Just the wasted electricity alone running those boxes would
surely end up costing more than a couple of USB adapters.


<jimmie68@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ac6e8c4a-60d1-44e0-b90b-77d2240c15a8@z66g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
>I have 3 Linksys wrt54gs riouters that I bought at auction. I am
> trying to get rid of the wired network in my house and want to use the
> routers as Lan adapters. I was told I could do this if I loaded DD-WRT
> on the routers. I loaded them with v24 and they seem to all still work
> but I dont have a clue as to how to set them up. The routers still
> work fine as wireless routers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

On Jul 2, 11:08*am, "Bill Kearney" <wkearne...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Given that network adapters are SO CHEAP these days, why torment yourself
> with this? *Just the wasted electricity alone running those boxes would
> surely end up costing more than a couple of USB adapters.
>
> <jimmi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:ac6e8c4a-60d1-44e0-b90b-77d2240c15a8@z66g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> >I have 3 Linksys wrt54gs riouters that I bought at auction. I am
> > trying to get rid of the wired network in my house and want to use the
> > routers as Lan adapters. I was told I could do this if I loaded DD-WRT
> > on the routers. I loaded them with v24 and they seem to all still work
> > but I dont have a clue as to how to set them up. The routers still
> > work fine as *wireless routers. Any help would be greatly appreciated..- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The routers cost me $5 each at auction. I have had a couple of USB
devices and they both got damaged(I have kids)costing me over $100,
and sometimes you just like to do stuff because you can. Doing
something like this is far from TORMENT and geeeez God forbid I may
learn something in the process.

Jimmie

jimmie68@gmail.com wrote:
> I have 3 Linksys wrt54gs riouters that I bought at auction. I am
> trying to get rid of the wired network in my house and want to use the
> routers as Lan adapters. I was told I could do this if I loaded DD-WRT
> on the routers. I loaded them with v24 and they seem to all still work
> but I dont have a clue as to how to set them up. The routers still
> work fine as wireless routers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Please reply via email
>
> jimmie68@gmail.com
>
> Jimmie
You can use a wrt54gs as an access point by turning off DHCP server. I'm
not sure what you mean by LAN adapter. You could have turned off the
DHCP on the stock units.

Pen wrote:
> jimmie68@gmail.com wrote:
>> I have 3 Linksys wrt54gs riouters that I bought at auction. I am
>> trying to get rid of the wired network in my house and want to use the
>> routers as Lan adapters. I was told I could do this if I loaded DD-WRT
>> on the routers. I loaded them with v24 and they seem to all still work
>> but I dont have a clue as to how to set them up. The routers still
>> work fine as wireless routers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not familiar with dd-wrt but the wiki might be instructive.
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

It seems to me you want to make your routers into wireless bridges.

>> Please reply via email

Post here, read here - that way everyone learns from the advice you get.

> You can use a wrt54gs as an access point by turning off DHCP server. I'm
> not sure what you mean by LAN adapter.

I guess he means use it as a wireless client / wireless bridge /
whatever you want to call it.

This is no big deal and I think you have the right idea for $5 (or
even $30) each! There are few adapters that will work as well as the
setup you are attempting.

The big question is whether it's wise to drop a wired connection for a
wireless? I would only put wireless where the wires won't reach or
where notebooks prevail.

What is the geography and computer locations for your local network?
We can help you sort out whether and where you really should use
wireless.

Apart from that, using the routers as ethernet bridges should be
easy. Have you read the DDWRT wiki yet? Googled for tutorials?

Well, since you asked, I did your homework for you. Read over these
and come back with any questions; the first link may be a little
easier reading.

http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/tutorials...le.php/3639271

http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php..._Mode_Wireless

Cheers,
Steve

On Jul 3, 10:35*am, seaweedsl <seaweedst...@gmail.com> wrote:
> This is no big deal and I think you have the right idea for $5 (or
> even $30) each! * There are few adapters that will work as well as the
> setup you are attempting.
>
> The big question is whether it's wise to drop a wired connection for a
> wireless? * I would only put wireless where the wires won't reach or
> where notebooks prevail.
>
> What is the geography and computer locations for your local network?
> We can help you sort out whether and where you really should use
> wireless.
>
> Apart from that, using the routers as ethernet bridges should be
> easy. *Have you read the DDWRT wiki yet? *Googled for tutorials?
>
> Well, since you asked, I did your homework for you. *Read over these
> and come back with any questions; the first link may be a little
> easier reading.
>
> http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/tutorials...le.php/3639271
>
> http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php..._Mode_Wireless
>
> Cheers,
> Steve

Thanks Steve, I was considering the bridge and client options. The
fact that you made the same two suggestions makes me feel a little
better about going ahead and trying them. Once I get my network up and
running I will pass along the details of how I got it up and going.


Jimmie

On Jul 3, 5:38*pm, jimmi...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jul 3, 10:35*am, seaweedsl <seaweedst...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > This is no big deal and I think you have the right idea for $5 (or
> > even $30) each! * There are few adapters that will work as well as the
> > setup you are attempting.
>
> > The big question is whether it's wise to drop a wired connection for a
> > wireless? * I would only put wireless where the wires won't reach or
> > where notebooks prevail.
>
> > What is the geography and computer locations for your local network?
> > We can help you sort out whether and where you really should use
> > wireless.
>
> > Apart from that, using the routers as ethernet bridges should be
> > easy. *Have you read the DDWRT wiki yet? *Googled for tutorials?
>
> > Well, since you asked, I did your homework for you. *Read over these
> > and come back with any questions; the first link may be a little
> > easier reading.
>
> >http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/tutorials...le.php/3639271
>
> >http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php..._Mode_Wireless
>
> > Cheers,
> > Steve
>
> Thanks Steve, I was *considering the bridge and client options. The
> fact that you made the same two suggestions makes me feel a little
> better about going ahead and trying them. Once I get my network up and
> running I will pass along the details of how I got it up.
>
> Jimmie- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

This is too cool. I am using a router in the client mode to connect to
my primary router wirelessly. Normally from this location using my
BELKIN USB adapter the connection is pretty poor. Using the WRT54GS in
Client mode I have an excelent connection. THANK YOU STEVE. Part of
the reason is that I can place the router in front of a window and the
signal is now line of site to the other router. Steve You were so
right about the WRT54s being better than regular adapters even if I
had to pay full price which I think is about $60 now. I can even see
my neighbors computer now good enough to log in. I do have his
permission.

Jimmie

On Jul 3, 8:54*pm, jimmi...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jul 3, 5:38*pm, jimmi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Jul 3, 10:35*am, seaweedsl <seaweedst...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > This is no big deal and I think you have the right idea for $5 (or
> > > even $30) each! * There are few adapters that will work as well as the
> > > setup you are attempting.
>
> > > The big question is whether it's wise to drop a wired connection for a
> > > wireless? * I would only put wireless where the wires won't reach or
> > > where notebooks prevail.
>
> > > What is the geography and computer locations for your local network?
> > > We can help you sort out whether and where you really should use
> > > wireless.
>
> > > Apart from that, using the routers as ethernet bridges should be
> > > easy. *Have you read the DDWRT wiki yet? *Googled for tutorials?
>
> > > Well, since you asked, I did your homework for you. *Read over these
> > > and come back with any questions; the first link may be a little
> > > easier reading.
>
> > >http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/tutorials...le.php/3639271
>
> > >http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php..._Mode_Wireless
>
> > > Cheers,
> > > Steve
>
> > Thanks Steve, I was *considering the bridge and client options. The
> > fact that you made the same two suggestions makes me feel a little
> > better about going ahead and trying them. Once I get my network up and
> > running I will pass along the details of how I got it up.
>
> > Jimmie- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> This is too cool. I am using a router in the client mode to connect to
> my primary router wirelessly. Normally from this location using my
> BELKIN USB adapter the connection is pretty poor. Using the WRT54GS in
> Client mode I have an excelent connection. THANK YOU STEVE. Part of
> the reason is that I can place the router in front of a window and the
> signal is now line of site to the other router. Steve You were so
> right about the WRT54s being better than regular adapters even if I
> had to pay full price which I think is about $60 now. I can even see
> my neighbors computer now good enough to log in. I do have his
> permission.
>
> Jimmie

Great ! If you ever need yet more range, throw a homemade reflector
on the antenna(s). google easy 10 easy 12 windsurfer.

On Jul 4, 11:17*am, seaweedsl <seaweedst...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jul 3, 8:54*pm, jimmi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jul 3, 5:38*pm, jimmi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > > On Jul 3, 10:35*am, seaweedsl <seaweedst...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > This is no big deal and I think you have the right idea for $5 (or
> > > > even $30) each! * There are few adapters that will work as well as the
> > > > setup you are attempting.
>
> > > > The big question is whether it's wise to drop a wired connection for a
> > > > wireless? * I would only put wireless where the wires won't reachor
> > > > where notebooks prevail.
>
> > > > What is the geography and computer locations for your local network?
> > > > We can help you sort out whether and where you really should use
> > > > wireless.
>
> > > > Apart from that, using the routers as ethernet bridges should be
> > > > easy. *Have you read the DDWRT wiki yet? *Googled for tutorials?
>
> > > > Well, since you asked, I did your homework for you. *Read over these
> > > > and come back with any questions; the first link may be a little
> > > > easier reading.
>
> > > >http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/tutorials...le.php/3639271
>
> > > >http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php..._Mode_Wireless
>
> > > > Cheers,
> > > > Steve
>
> > > Thanks Steve, I was *considering the bridge and client options. The
> > > fact that you made the same two suggestions makes me feel a little
> > > better about going ahead and trying them. Once I get my network up and
> > > running I will pass along the details of how I got it up.
>
> > > Jimmie- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > This is too cool. I am using a router in the client mode to connect to
> > my primary router wirelessly. Normally from this location using my
> > BELKIN USB adapter the connection is pretty poor. Using the WRT54GS in
> > Client mode I have an excelent connection. THANK YOU STEVE. Part of
> > the reason is that I can place the router in front of a window and the
> > signal is now line of site to the other router. Steve You were so
> > right about the WRT54s being better than regular adapters even if I
> > had to pay full price which I think is about $60 now. I can even see
> > my neighbors computer now good enough to log in. I do have his
> > permission.
>
> > Jimmie
>
> Great ! *If you ever need yet more range, throw a homemade reflector
> on the antenna(s). *google easy 10 easy 12 windsurfer.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Building a gain antenna is easy enough, what I was wondering about is
the losses in the cable. At 2.4Ghz its going to take some really good
feedline. How do the WIFI people handle this? I would think about
putting a router very close to the antenna since low loss cable can
cost bucks a foot.

Jimmie

On Fri, 4 Jul 2008 10:46:48 -0700 (PDT), jimmie68@gmail.com wrote:

>Building a gain antenna is easy enough, what I was wondering about is
>the losses in the cable. At 2.4Ghz its going to take some really good
>feedline. How do the WIFI people handle this? I would think about
>putting a router very close to the antenna since low loss cable can
>cost bucks a foot.

That depends on how much cable and how much fade margin you have. I
prefer to put the router next to the antenna, but even that requires a
coax "pigtail".

The question is how much additional cable loss you can tolerate before
your signal craps out. There's a really crude test that might offer a
clue. Take a piece of wet cardboard or black IC foam to block half
your panel or dish antenna. That's a 3dB loss. Block off 3/4 of the
panel, and you have a 6dB loss. Crude, but effective. Don't use foil
or metal reflectors for this. You want the blocking device to be an
absorber, not a reflector. That should give you a clue as to how much
loss you can tolerate. Of course, a real coax RF attenuator is the
right way, but if you had one, you probably wouldn't be asking this
question.

Cable loss is easy and comes from a simple chart:
LMR-200 16.9 dB/100ft
LMR-240 12.9 dB/100ft
LMR-400 6.8 dB/100ft

So, if you decide that you can tolerate 3dB of additional cable loss,
that means you can use about 44ft of LMR-400, or 23ft of LMR-240, or
17ft of LMR-200. Lots of pre-cut cables with connectors available:
<http://www.fab-corp.com/home.php?cat=248>
<http://www.fab-corp.com/home.php?cat=249>

What this means is that for fairly short coax runs of perhaps 10ft or
less, don't worry about cable type. Almost anything will work. If a
few dB make a difference, you already have a marginal system anyway
and need to do something else.

Also, I've been quite successful using 75 ohm coax instead of 50 ohm
as in RG-9/u CATV coax. There's a slight mismatch, and two additional
coax adapter are required. The nice part is that it's commonly
available, very cheap, and can be assembled without expensive tools
and crimp connectors. However, don't go cheap on the F connectors.
Use proper piston type tools and "push on" F connectors.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558