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Old 04-19-2004, 02:27 PM
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Default Outdoor AP enclosures

Hi

I'm at that point where I have my AP (Dlink 2000AP+) and I want to stick it outside on my roof...

Now I've read a post about gutting a 900AP into a zippy box kinda thing, but I opened up my AP and it doesn't look like there's any spare room:



So I might as well leave it in the box. I measured the box at 150x120x40, erring on the upside for safety. I would also like to put my DSE amplifier in the same box, and possibly some homemade PoE equipment, but I'm still researching how to build an efficient stepdown supply that won't get too hot.

So far I've discovered that Jaycar sell both ABS and diecast aluminium boxes that are rated to IP65 of IEC529 standard, which translates to completely dustproof and able to withstand a low pressure water jet from any direction. I'm guessing that makes it rainproof.
Link: http://www1.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?I...x=&SUBCATID=481

Sounds great doesn't it? except they want nearly $50 for the blimmin things. I don't know if I could bring myself to pay that for a box...

Anyway, other solutions include building a box myself (I don't really trust myself not to end up with a soggy AP that way..) and a mate suggested I use a click-clack box, but I'm just not sure how waterproof that may be.

So.. I guess I'm after some stories of success from other roof-APers! Tell me what works for you
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:57 PM
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hello,

As a matter of fact i have dfone the exact same thing with the exact same AP. I got a box from DSE and just lumped the whole AP into it. I driled two holes one for the antenana connector and one for the ethernet cable which holds POE.

Ill update with some phots shortly, however... in the ap box i have a vol regulator to keep it at 5v so i can put what ever i want at the power plug end. How these are made i dont know hoave a eletronics friend making them up but by all accounts not to hard to solder up.

To hold the AP in the enclosure i used some big arse pieces of velcro, different, but works. Savies having to blue or bostik it in and it is as snug as a bug in a rug.

Any q's just ask!!


Wookie
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Old 04-20-2004, 02:13 AM
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Here are some pictures of my install
http://www.john.geek.nz/nzwireless/cbd.joh..._poe/index.html
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Old 04-20-2004, 03:08 AM
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Thanks

johnburns - I recognise that regulator kitset! I built one of those a while back. I have heaps and heaps of linear regulators (some 1.5A and some 5A) which I could use for PoE, but I was just worried about things getting too hot.

Your box looks a bit bigger than what DSE have, but jaycar do seem to have them that size.. Did you have to do any additional weatherproofing or was your box fine as it came?

Also any idea how much access points actually draw? Because that determines what voltage I have to put in the head end, as higher voltage in will allow for more current out, but will also make the linear regulator up the tail end much hotter... My best guess is the access point draws up to about 1A @ 5v and the booster draws maybe the same at 6V. I think regulating it down to 6V will be fine. I ran my Linksys AP off 12v for a while by accident and it didn't seem to care, they all have internal regulation anyway.

Wookie - Do you know what the cat number of the box you found at DSE was? As far as I can tell, none of them are big enough?


Keep em flowing
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Old 04-20-2004, 03:34 AM
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OrangePeel,
yep, its the dse circuit.
When I put the regulator IC in, I put it in on the opposite side to normal and did the 'same side soldering'. I also didn't cut the legs on it shorter so the legs could be bent and the metal side of the IC was lying flat, but to the outside - if you solder the IC as the instructions say, the metal side is to the inside.
In my case, I made an old style keyhole type hole in the bottom of the case and used an old pentium style heatsink - I was paranoid of the heat output into a sealed box. The heatsink had a hole drilled in the center of it, and then was glued using silicon to the outside bottom of the case. I then bolted the regulator to the heatsink from the inside, thus the regulator was inside, but the heatsink was external. I almost cut a square hole the size of the heatsink but decided it would be hard to seal.

I got the box from Jaycar, about $50 - It has mounting holes external to the sealed inside so I screwed the box to some painted plywood and used a U-Bolt to hold the ply to the mast.

Try this link http://www.ralphfowler.com/links/dwl900.html for the power requirements of a 900ap+, I assume the 2000AP would be similar in current draw.
I planned to supply about 6 volts to the regulator, but decided it was a waste of time - I supply 12 volts from an ATX power supply and the regulator gets about 11.4volts - it ouputs 5.14 volts.

I tried running my AP from a dirty (standard plugpack no regulator) 12v power supply and it made a noticable but very quiet buzzing noise - may be the 50Hz supply doing something to it - it appeared to work though.

I hope this helps.....

-John
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:08 AM
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Hi,

I have added a regulator to inside of my box. Hopefully heat wont be too much to screw with the AP itself. I didnt know that they had a voltage regualtor in them already... guess i dont need another.

DSE cat number for the box i used is: H2865. Plenty of room.

Wookie
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